UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA   PUBLICATIONS. 


COLLEGE  OF  AGRICULTURE, 


AGRICULTURAL  EXPERIMENT  STATION. 


RESISTANT   VINEYARDS 


GRAFTING,  PLANTING,  CULTIVATION. 


By  FREDERIC  T.  BIOLETTI. 


Vineyard  of  Bench-grafts.    One  failed  out  of  750  planted. 


BULLETIN    No.    180. 


W.  W.  SHANNON, 


SACRAMENTO: 

SUPERINTENDENT  STATE  PIUNTING 
1  906. 


BENJAMIN   IDE  WHEELER,  Ph.D.,  LL-D.,  President  of  the  University, 


EXPERIMENT  STATION  STAFF. 

E.  J.  WICKSON,  M.A.,  Acting  Director  and  Horticulturist. 

E.  W.  HILGARD,  Ph.D.,  LL.D.,  Chemist. 

W.  A.  SETCHELL,  Ph.D.,  Botanist. 

ELWOOD  MEAD,  M.S.,  C.E.,  Irrigation  Engineer. 

C.  W.  WOODWORTH,  M.S.,  Entomologist. 

R.  H.  LOUGHRIDGE,  Ph.D.,  Agricultural  Geologist  and  Soil  Physicist.     (Soils  and  Alkali.)    (Ab- 

M.  E-  JAFFA,  M.S.,  Chemist.     (Foods,  Nutrition^)  [sent  on  leave.) 

G.  W.  SHAW,  M.A.,  Ph.D.,  Chemist.    (Cereals,  Oils',  Beet-Sugar.) 

GEORGE  E.  COI^BY,  M.S.,  Chemist.    (Fruits,  Waters,  Insecticides.) 

RALPH  E-  SMITH,  B.S.,  Plant  Pathologist. 

A.  R.  WARD,  B.S.A.,  D.V.M.,  Veterinarian  and  Bacteriologist. 

E.  W.  MAJOR,  B.Agr.,  Animal  Industry. 

F.  T.  BIOLETTI,  M.S.,  Viticulturist.     (Grapes,  Wine,  and  Zymology.) 
H.  M.  HALL,  M.S.,  Assistant  Botanist. 

JOHN  S.  BURD,  B.S.,  Chemist,  in  charge  of  Fertilizer  Control. 

C.  M.  HARING,  D.V.M.,  Assistant  Veterinarian  and  Bacteriologist. 
ALBERT  M.  WEST,  B.S.,  Assistant  Plant  Pathologist. 

E-  H.  SMITH,  M.S.,  Assistant  Plant  Pathologist. 

G.  R.  STEWART,  Student  Assistant  in  Station  Laboratory. 
,  Assistant  in  Soil  Laboratory. 

RALPH  BENTON,  B.S..  Assistant  in  Entomology. 

LUDWIG  ROSENSTEIN,  Laboratory  Assistant  in  Fertilizer  Control. 

ALFRED  TOURNIER,  Assistant  in    Viticulture. 

HANS  HOLM,  Student  Assistant  in  Zymology. 

A.  J.  GAUMITZ,  Assistant  in  Cereal  Laboratory. 

J.  C.  BRADLEY,  A.B.,  Assistant  in  Entomology. 

D.  L.  BUNNELL,  Clerk  to  the  Director. 


R.  E-  MANSELL,  Foreman  of  Central  Station  Grounds. 

JOHN  TUOHY,  Patron,      ) 

>     Tulare  Substation,  Tulare. 
,  Foreman,        ) 

J.  W.  MILLS,  Pomona,  in  charge  Cooperative  Experiments  in  Southern  California. 

T.  W.  ROPER,  Patron,  ) 

>  University  Forestry  Station,  Chieo. 
E.  C.  MILLER  In  charge,        ) 

ROY  JONES,  Patron,  (  .  . 

>  University  Forestry  Station,  Santa  Monica. 
N.  D.  INGHAM,  Foreman,      ) 

VINCENT  J.  HUNTLEY,  Foreman  of  California  Poultry  Experiment  Station,  Petaluma. 


The  Station  publications  (Reports  and  Bulletins),  so  long  as  avail- 
able, will  be  sent  to  any  citizen  of  the  State  on  application. 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 

INTRODUCTION 89 

I.  THE  NURSERY— 

Choice  and  preparation  of  the  soil. 93 

Grafting  cuttings 94 

Choice  of  cuttings... 94 

Mother  vines 95 

Making  and  conservation  of  cuttings.. 98 

Time  of  grafting _ 100 

Preparation  of  stocks.. 100 

Preparation  of  scions 102 

Grading  cuttings.. . .- 102 

Methods  of  uniting  stock  and  scion 106 

Tongue  grafting 108 

Wire  grafting 110 

Making  bundles Ill 

Grafting  rooted  cuttings 112 

Callusing 113 

Planting  in  the  nursery _ 118 

Cultivation  in  the  nursery 121 

Removal  of  scion  roots.. 124 

Removal  of  raffia  and  suckers... 124 

Digging  the  grafts ,  125 

Sorting  the  grafts ...  125 

Pruning  the  grafts 126 

Conservation  and  shipping 128 

Nursery  grafting 128 

II.  THE  VINEYARD- 

Preparation  of  the  soil 129 

Fertilization 129 

Intercalary  crops 130 

Planting _ 130 

Pruning 133 

Staking 133 

Suckering  and  rooting 134 

Cultivation 134 


lxxxviii  CONTENTS. 

III.     FIELD  GRAFTING—  Page. 

Preparation  of  the  soil 135 

Cuttings  or  roots 135 

Age  for  grafting __., 136 

Methods  of  grafting 136 

Tying  and  waxing 138 

Season  for  field  grafting 138 

Treatment  the  first  year ._  138 

Regrafting 139 

Herbaceous  grafting 140 

Comparison  of  various  methods 142 

ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Young  vineyard  of  bench-grafts {cover) 

Fig.    1.     Effect  of  scion  roots  on  old  vines .. 92 

2.  Mother  vines  of  resistant  stock. 99 

3.  Gauge  for  cutting  stocks 101 

4.  Notch  and  slot  graders 103 

5.  Slot  grader  set  up . 103 

6.  Scales  for  slot  grader 105 

7.  Various  methods  of  bench  grafting. . .. 107 

8.  Method  of  holding  knife .. 108 

9.  Wire-cutter 110 

10.  Bundle  stand Ill 

11.  Callusing  bed 113 

12.  Plan  of  callusing  bed 114 

13.  Callused  wire  graft... 114 

14.  Effects  of  moisture  on  callus  formation ... 115 

15.  Root  and  callus  formation 116 

16.  Effect  of  temperature  on  callus  formation. ._ 117 

17.  Callused  whip  grafts 118 

18.  Planting  dibbles 120 

19.  Method  of  planting  in  nursery  with  dibble 121 

20.  Method  of  planting  in  nursery  in  trenches 121 

21.  Irrigating  a  nursery '.._ 122 

22.  Scion  roots  on  bench  grafts. ...  123 

23.  Grafts  strangled  by  raffia 125 

24.  No.  1  bench  grafts 127 

25.  Method  of  planting  grafts  in  vineyard 131 

26.  Methods  of  field  grafting 137 

27.  Scion  roots  in  field-grafted  vine ._  139 

28.  Herbaceous  graft 140 

29.  Herbaceous  bud  .. 141 


RESISTANT  VINEYARDS. 

GRAFTING,   PLANTING,  AND    CULTIVATION. 

By  FREDERIC   T.   BIOLETTI. 


INTRODUCTION. 

There  is  no  subject  connected  with  grape-growing  about  which  there 
is  more  general  demand  for  information  in  California  than  that  of  the 
growing  of  resistant  vines.  Innumerable  inquiries  are  received  at 
the  Experiment  Station  regarding  methods  of  planting,  grafting,  and 
cultivating  phylloxera-resistant  vineyards.  Several  bulletins  on  various 
phases  of  this  subject  have  been  published  by  the  Station,  but  they 
are  all  somewhat  out  of  date  at  this  time,  and  the  editions  of  most  of 
them  are  exhausted. 

The  two  phases  of  the  subject  about  which  there  seems  to  be  most 
pressing  need  for  information  are  the  determination  of  the  best  varieties 
of  resistant  stocks  for  the  various  soils  and  climates  of  the  State,  and 
the  best  methods  of  starting  and  grafting  a  resistant  vineyard. 

With  regard  to  the  first  phase,  the  Station  is  carrying  on  tests  in 
various  localities  and  is  gradually  accumulating  data  which  will  make 
it  possible  to  offer  some  definite  recommendations  at  a  future  time. 
The  questions  of  adaptation  to  local  conditions  and  of  affinity  between 
stocks  and  scions  of  various  varieties  are  complicated  and  difficult,  and 
require  much  time  and  experimentation  for  their  completely  satisfac- 
tory solution. 

With  regard  to  the  second  phase  we  have  a  great  deal  of  valuable 
evidence  drawn  from  the  experience  of  growers  during  the  last  twenty 
years  and  from  experiment  work  conducted  by  the  Station.  Though 
there  is  always  room  for  improvement,  we  may  say  that  the  methods 
of  our  most  progressive  growers  of  resistant  vineyards  are  perfectly 
successful  in  accomplishing  the  object  in  view.  Unfortunately  many 
growers  are  not  so  successful,  and  many  of  the  resistant  vineyards  of 
the  State  are  an  eyesore  and  a  source  of  loss  to  their  owners.  It  is  from 
such  growers  that  originates  the  statement  that  resistant  vineyards 
are  a  failure.  Growers  who  have  adopted  proper  methods  of  handling 
resistant  vineyards  are  enthusiastic  in  their  praise.  It  has  been  demon- 
strated here,  as  in  Europe,  that,  as  a  rule,  vineyards  of  vinifera  vines 


90  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

grafted  on  resistant  stock,  when  properly  handled,  produce  larger  crops 
of  better  grapes  than  vineyards  of  ungrafted  vinifera. 

This  bulletin  is  issued,  therefore,  with  the  object  of  describing  what 
seem  to  us  the  best  methods  of  procedure,  especially  as  regards  the 
mechanical  details  of  grafting,  planting,  and  nursery  work. 

Some  of  the  chief  causes  of  failure  in  unsuccessful  grafted  vineyards 
are: 

1.  The  use  of  a  resistant  variety  which  is  unsuited  to  the  soil  and 
climate  of  the  locality.  Resistant  varieties  are  all  derived  from  one  of 
several  species  of  wild  vines  indigenous  to  the  United  States  east  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  All  these  species  are  much  more  difficult  to  suit  in 
the  matters  of  soil  and  climate  than  the  European  wild  vine,  Vitis 
vinifera,  from  which  all  our  wine  and  raisin  and  most  of  our  table 
grapes  are  derived.  This  question  of  adaptation  to  local  conditions  is 
only  touched  on  here. 

2.  The  use  of  an  insufficiently  resistant  variety.  Varieties  of  all 
degrees  of  resistance  exist,  from  almost  absolute  immunity  to  a  degree 
of  resistance  so  small  as  to  be  of  little  practical  value.  Some  with  a 
medium  degree  of  resistance,  like  the  Lenoir,  will  give  fair  to  good 
results  when  grown  under  the  most  favorable  conditions,  but  fail  more 
or  less  completely  when  attacked  by  phylloxera  under  less  favorable 
conditions.  This  question  of  resistance  is  not  discussed  fully  here,  but 
all  the  varieties  recommended  have  sufficient  resistance  under  prac- 
tically all  conditions  that  exist  in  Californian  grape-growing  districts, 

3.  The  use  of  unselected  resistants.  Many  of  the  first  resistant  vine- 
yards started  in  California  were  planted  with  cuttings  of  wild  Riparia 
vines  collected  in  Nebraska  and  other  native  habitats  of  the  species. 
Wild  vines  are  nearly  always  seedlings  and,  therefore,  vary  very  much. 
Each  vine,  though  of  the  same  wild  species,  is  in  fact  a  different  variety 
of  the  species  (using  the  word  variety  in  the  horticultural  sense).  For 
this  reason,  wild  vines  differ  greatly  in  many  respects,  and  especially 
in  the  important  character  of  vigor.  Though  a  few  of  them  may  be 
sufficiently  vigorous  to  make  good  grafting  stock,  many  of  them  are 
much  too  weak  or  slender,  and  none  of  them  are  likely  to  be  as  good  as 
the  best  named  varieties  which  have  been  selected  from  a  vast  number 
of  seedlings  on  account  of  their  exceptional  vigor  and  the  possession  of 
the  greatest  number  of  those  characteristics  which  are  desirable  in  a 
grafting  stock.  Most  of  the  earlier  resistant  vineyards  show  great 
variation  in  the  vigor  and  bearing  of  the  vines  due  to  this  use  of  wild 
cuttings,  and  none  of  them  give  as  good  results  as  they  would  have 
given  if  grafted  on  a  good  selected  variety  of  stock.  This  variation 
in  vigor,  bearing,  and  longevity  is  often  found  in  more  modern  vine- 
yards, and  is  due  to  a  mixing  of  varieties  by  the  nurseryman  or  the 
grower  of  resistant  cuttings. 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS— GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  91 

4.  Grafting  the  resistant  vines  when  too  old.  A  grafted  vine  to  be 
a  permanent  success  must  have  a  perfect  union.  The  younger  the 
tissues,  the  more  complete  and  lasting  the  union.  Budding  and  graft- 
ing herbaceous  canes  produce  unions  which  are  practically  perfect.  If 
the  scion  and  stock  are  each  only  one  year  old,  as  in  cutting  grafting, 
the  union  is  nearly  always  as  perfect  and  permanent.  No  wood  older 
than  one  year  is  ever  used  as  a  scion,  but  the  stock  is  often  grafted 
when  much  older.  If  the  stock  is  more  than  one  year  old  many  varie- 
ties fail  to  give  good  unions,  and  if  three  or  four  years  old* a  large 
number  of  the  grafted  vines  will  fail  after  they  have  produced  a  few 
crops.  Some  of  the  best  resistant  stocks  fail  almost  completely  if 
grafted  when  several  years  old,  and  though  they  bear  well  and  appear 
strong  for  a  few  years  they  soon  begin  to  fail,  and  every  year  after 
the  first  two  or  three  crops  a  certain  proportion  of  the  unions  fail  and 
the  tops  die.  A  vineyard  may  linger  in  this  way  for  eight  or  ten  years, 
until  finally  from  50  to  75  per  cent  of  the  vines  are  dead.  This  is  one 
of  the  strongest  objections  to  field  grafting,  and  is  more  thoroughly 
discussed  later. 

5.  Planting  or  grafting  too  deep.  The  result  of  this  is  that  the  scions 
form  their  own  roots  and  finally  become  independent  of  the  resistant 
stock,  which  dies.  Such  vines  are,  of  course,  non-resistants  and  just  as 
quickly  killed  by  phylloxera  as  if  grown  in  the  first  place  from  vinifera 
cuttings.  Some  vine-growers,  of  long  experience  with  vinifera  vine- 
yards but  unfamiliar  with  resistants,  do  not  believe  that  this  death  of 
the  resistant  stock  will  take  place  under  the  conditions  described.  They 
state  that  it  is  an  advantage  for  the  scion  to  have  its  own  roots  as 
well  as  those  of  the  resistant.  They  argue  that,  if  there  is  iittle  or  no 
phylloxera  present,  the  vines  will  do  better  with  two  sets  of  roots  than 
with  one,  and  that,  when  the  phylloxera  increases  to  dangerous  propor- 
tions and  destroys  the  vinifera  roots,  the  resistant  roots  are  there  to 
save  the  vine. 

This  theory  is  based  on  the  false  assumption  that  the  roots  are  the 
main,  or  only,  feeding  organs  of  a  plant,  and  overlooks  the  fact  that 
the  roots  require  the  materials  furnished  by  the  leaves  quite  as  much  as 
the  leaves  require  those  furnished  by  the  roots.  For  both  to  be  vigorous, 
therefore,  there  must  be  a  mutual  exchange  of  food  matters. 

This  exchange  takes  place  through  the  medium  of  the  tubes  and 
cells  of  the  wood  and  bast  of  the  stem  of  the  vine.  The  soil  nutrients 
pass  with  the  sap,  principally  through  the  younger  wood,  from  the  roots 
to  the  leaves.  In  the  leaves  these  materials  are  combined  with  gases 
absorbed  from  the  air  and  are  elaborated  into  the  real  food  of  the  vine 
which  passes  back,  principally  through  the  bast  or  region  exterior  to  the 
wood,  into  all  parts  of  the  plant,  to  supply  the  material  necessary  for 
growth  and  other  various  vital  functions. 


92 


UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT    STATION. 


In  ungrafted  vines  this  exchange  takes  place  readily  and  all  the 
branches  and  all  the  roots  are  well  nourished.  In  grafted  vines,  owing 
to  the  fact  that  the  stock  and  scion  are  of  different  species  and,  there- 
fore, of  different  structure  and  composition,  there  is  some  interference 
with  the  exchange,  resulting  in  a  slight  weakening  of  the  whole  vine. 
This  weakening,  under  proper  conditions,  is  so  slight  that  it  does  not 


FIG.  1.    Showing  effect  on  Resistant  Stock  of  allowing  the  scion  roots  to  remain. 

(Redrawn  after  Viala  and  Ravaz.) 

A.  Old  grafted  vine  with  large  top  roots  (S)  from  scion.    Note  small,  weak  resistant  stock  (R). 

B.  Normal  grafted  vine  on  which  no  scion  roots  have  been  allowed  to  develop.    Note  smooth 

union  (U)  and  strong  resistant  stock  (R). 

detract  from  the  usefulness  of  the  vine,  and,  in  fact,  like  many  other 
slightly  weakening  causes,  it  usually  has  the  effect  of  producing  an 
increased  tendency  to  fruitfulness.  If,  however,  the  scion  is  allowed  to 
make  its  own  roots,  the  return  stream  of  nutritive  material  takes  the 
course  of  least  resistance  and  goes  principally  into  the  scion  roots.  The 
result  is  that  these  grow  vigorously,  so  long  as  the  phylloxera  is  absent, 
and  the  roots  of  the  resistant  stock  are  starved  and  finally  die.     This 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS— GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  93 

is  not  mere  theory,  but  is  substantiated  by  the  numerous 'cases  where 
dying  resistant  vineyards  have  been  examined  and  this  condition  found. 
This  condition  is  particularly  common  with  field-grafted  vines. 

There  are  several  ways  in  which  the  union  between  resistant  stock 
and  bearing  scion  can  be  brought  about:  (1)  The  scion  cuttings  may 
be  grafted  on  the  resistant  cuttings  or  on  resistant  roots  in  the  work- 
shop before  planting  in  the  nursery.  This  is  called  ''bench  grafting." 
(2)  The  resistant  cuttings  may  first  be  rooted  in  the  nursery  and  then 
the  next  year  grafted  in  place  without  removal.  This  is  called  "nursery 
grafting."  (3)  The  resistant  cuttings  or  roots  may  be  planted 
directly  in  the  vineyard  and  then  the  next  year  or  some  subsequent 
year  they  may  be  grafted.  This  is  called  "field  grafting,"  "vineyard 
grafting,"  or  "grafting  in  situ." 

Each  method  has  its  advocates  and  its  uses,  but  the  method  of  most 
general  application  and  that  which  has  given  the  most  general  satisfac- 
tion is  the  first.  The  last  method  is  practised  with  success  only  where 
the  conditions  are  exceptionally  favorable,  and  even  there  is  gradually 
being  rejected  in  favor  of  the  first  by  nearly  every  grower  who  has 
tried  both  methods.  The  reasons  for  this  will  be  discussed  after  the 
various  methods  have  been  described. 


I.    THE  NURSERY. 

Choice  and  Preparation  of  the  Soil. — The  high  cost  of  grafted  vines 
is  due  partly  to  the  skill  and  labor  necessary  in  producing  them,  but, 
also,  in  a  great  degree,  to  the  large  number  of  grafts  which  fail  to  grow 
or  to  make  a  satisfactory  union  in  the  nursery.  If  we  allow  $10  per 
thousand  for  the  cuttings  used  as  stock  and  scion,  and  $15  per  thousand 
for  making  and  growing  the  grafts,  they  could  be  raised  profitably  for 
$35  per  thousand  if  every  one  grew  and  made  a  good  grafted  vine. 
Probably  on  the  average  not  more  than  fifty  per  cent  of  the  grafts  made 
are  sufficiently  perfect  in  growth,  union,  and  root  to  be  sold,  and  they 
must  therefore  bring  $60  or  more  per  thousand  to  be  raised  at  a  profit. 

While  there  are  many  causes  for  the  failure  of  some  of  the  grafts  to 
grow,  probably  the  most  important  of  these  is  the  nature  of  the  soil 
in  which  they  are  rooted.  Any  soil  which  bakes  on  the  top  after  rain 
or  irrigation  will  cause  the  failure  of  many  grafts.  If  the  crust  is  not 
broken  up,  the  moisture  will  escape  and  the  scions  dry  out.  If  the 
crust  is  broken,  many  of  the  scions  will  be  disturbed  and  fail  to  unite. 
A  soil  which  becomes  very  compact  will  spoil  many  grafts  by  preventing 
the  shoot  from  pushing  its  way  through.  Stony  soils  destroy  many 
grafts  in  similar  ways.  If  the  soil  dries  out  too  easily  and  quickly  many 
scions  will  fail  to  unite.    Wet  soils  are  even  worse.    A  soil  which  remains 


D4  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

cold  and  wet  for  any  considerable  time  after  the  grafts  are  planted  will 
•cause  the  loss  of  a  large  proportion. 

The  ideal  soil  for  a  nursery  of  bench  grafts  is  a  light,  well-drained, 
sandy  loam  containing  an  abundance  of  humus.  It  should  be  carefully 
graded  in  order  to  have  no  low  spots  where  the  water  will  lie  and  drown 
the  grafts,  and  no  high  spots  to  which  it  is  difficult  to  get  the  irrigation 
water. 

The  physical  nature  and  condition  of  the  soil  is  of  more  importance 
than  its  chemical  composition.  The  soil  should  not  be  poor,  but  it  is, 
on  the  other  hand,  not  desirable  that  it  should  be  too  rich.  Grafts 
which  grow  very  large  in  the  nursery  do  not  make  the  best  vines  in 
the  vineyard.  Extra  large  grafts  often  die  the  first  year  after  they 
are  planted  out.  Small  dwarfed  grafts  are  a  year  behind  those  which 
.are  well  grown,  and  probably  never  make  profitable  vines.  A  plant  of 
medium  size,  with  good  roots,  perfect  union,  and  a  growth  of  from  15 
to  18  inches,  is  the  best. 

At  least  two  months  before  planting,  the  soil  of  the  nursery  should 
be  thoroughly  prepared.  All  weeds,  stones,  and  rubbish  should  be 
removed  and  the  ground  well  plowed.  Most  soils  should  be  plowed  or 
subsoiled  to  a  depth  of  at  least  18  inches  in  order  to  aerate  and  pulver- 
ize the  soil  to  promote  quick  rooting.  Unless  the  roots  of  the  stock 
start  almost  as  soon  as  the  buds  of  the  scion,  the  latter  will  dry  out  as 
soon  as  its  little  leaves  begin  to  evaporate  water.  If  the  subsoil  is  clayey 
or  contains  a  great  deal  of  cementing  material,  it  should  not  be 
turned  up. 

Soils  which  are  defective,  if  used  at  all,  should,  of  course,  be  fertilized. 
Any  fertilizer  which  improves  the  texture  of  the  soil  is  to  be  preferred. 
Well-rotted  stable  manure  is  useful,  but  the  best  fertilizer  for  the 
purpose  is  a  good  crop  of  field  peas  or  other  legume  plowed-in  the 
previous  autumn  sufficiently  early  to  insure  its  complete  rotting  before 
planting  time. 

Cutting  Grafts.  Choice  of  Cuttings. — To  obtain  the  best  results, 
both  in  the  percentage  and  quality  of  the  grafted  vines  produced  by 
the  nursery  and  in  the  profit  of  the  vineyard  where  they  are  planted, 
great  care  is  necessary  in  the  selection  of  cuttings  for  both  scions  and 
stocks. 

For  scions,  cuttings  should  be  taken  only  from  healthy  vines  which 
are  known  to  have  produced  good  crops.  Cuttings  from  vines  weakened 
by  phylloxera,  root-rot,  or  other  diseases  are  apt  to  be  weak,  soft,  badly 
nourished,  and  incompletely  matured.  Such  cuttings  will  not  give  a 
high  percentage  of  No.  1  grafts,  nor  make  a  profitable  vineyard.  Cut- 
tings showing  signs  of  serious  attacks  of  oidium,  vine-hoppers,  or  other 
fungi  and  insects  should  be  rejected.     The  cuttings  used  should  be  of 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  95 

medium  size,  firm,  with  small,  light-colored  pith  and  short  to  medium 
joints.  Very  large  or  very  small  cuttings  do  not  give  the  largest  per- 
centage of  successful  unions,  nor  the  best  vines.  The  best  size  is  about 
one  third  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  though  this  will  vary  somewhat 
according  to  the  variety  of  vine.  Any  cuttings  under  one  quarter  of 
an  inch  or  over  one  half  an  inch  in  diameter  should  not  be  used.  If 
this  rule  is  adopted,  all  buds  from  the  thick  base  of  the  cane  which 
are  apt  to  give  unfruitful  vines,  and  all  buds  from  the  tip  of  the  cane 
which  are  apt  to  be  immature  and  to  give  weak  vines,  will  be  eliminated. 

The  choice  of  cuttings  for  stocks  is  almost  equally  important.  All 
the  precautions  regarding  the  health  and  maturity  of  the  cuttings  and 
of  the  vines  from  which  they  come  apply  equally  in .  this  case.  The 
most  important  point  to  be  observed,  however,  is  that  they  are  unmixed 
and  true  to  name.  If  there  is  a  slight  mixture  of  varieties  in  the  scion 
cuttings  the  error  is  not  quite  so  serious,  as  the  grapes  may  be  nearly 
equally  valuable,  and  at  worst  the  vines  can  be  regrafted.  If  the  stocks 
are  mixed,  however,  there  is  no  easy  way  of  detecting  it,  and  the  result 
will  probably  be  a  vineyard  of  unequal  growth,  in  which  many  of  the 
vines  are  unprofitable. 

There  is  great  danger  of  this  mixing  of  stocks,  for  many  vineyards 
of  mother  vines  in  California  are  badly  mixed  with  many  inferior  kinds 
of  Riparia,  Eupestris,  etc.,  most  of  which  are  valueless  as  grafting  stock. 
The  conditions  in  France  seem  to  be  no  better,  and  the  risk  of  a  mixture 
in  imported  cuttings  is  greater  than  with  the  home-grown,  as  we  have 
no  opportunity  of  verifying  the  mother  vines  and  are  quite  at  the 
mercy  of  the  nurseryman. 

The  size  of  the  stock  cuttings  must,  of  course,  be  the  same  as  that 
of  the  scions,  as  they  have  to  be  accurately  matched. 

The  cuttings  sliould  be  smooth  and  straight.  Crooks,  curved  cuttings, 
with  large  knots  where  laterals  have  been  removed,  are  much  more 
difficult  to  graft.  It  is  to  be  desired  that  some  one  would  make  a 
business  of  raising  mother  vines  for  the  production  of  cuttings  for 
grafting.  It  would  be  a  profitable  crop,  and  if  properly  looked  after 
would  much  improve  the  quality  and  lessen  the  cost  of  grafted  vines. 

Planting  and  Cultivation  of  Mother  Vines.— In  planting  a  vineyard 
bant  vines  for  the  production  of  cuttings  to  be  used  for  grafting 
it  is  important  that  a  suitable  soil  and  location  be  chosen.  In  order  to 
produce  a  large  crop  of  good  cuttings  the  soil  should  be  naturally  rich 
or  heavily  fertilized.  The  location  should  be  one  in  which  the  wood 
always  ripens  early  and  thoroughly.  Spring  frosts  are  almost  as 
unfavorable  to  the  production  of  good  cuttings  as  of  grapes. 

The  choice  of  varieties  to  plant  will  depend,  of  course,  on  what  the 
market  demands.     If  there  should  be  a  falling  off  of  the  demand  for 


96  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

the  kind  planted,  or  an  overproduction,  it  is  always  possible  to  graft  the 
stocks  with  other  varieties  of  resistants  to  meet  the  changed  conditions. 

For  the  best  results  the  land  should  be  given  the  same  careful 
preparation  recommended  for  the  planting  of  grafts.  (See  page  93.) 
All  the  usual  stocks  are  vigorous  growers,  and  as  they  are  planted  in 
fertile  soil  they  should  be  given  plenty  of  space.  A  distance  of  9  feet 
by  9  feet  or  8  feet  by  10  feet  is  quite  close  enough.  This  will  give  about 
500  vines  to  the  acre.  As  a  good  vine  properly  cared  for  should  produce 
150  feet  of  good  wood  for  bench  grafting,  the  product  of  an  acre  would 
be  about  75,000  cuttings. 

The  varieties  of  resistant  stocks  which  will  in  all  probability  be  most 
used  in  California  are  Rupestris  St.  George  (du  Lot),  Riparia  X  Rupes- 
tris  3306,  Riparia  X  Rupestris  3309,  Riparia  Solonis  1616,  Mourvedre 
X  Rupestris  1202,  Aramon  X  Rupestris  2,  Riparia  gloire,  and  Riparia 
grande  glabre.  These  are  all  varieties  which  have  given  excellent 
results  for  years  in  Europe,  and  have  all  been  tested  successfully  in 
California.  Among  them  are  varieties  suitable  for  nearly  all  the 
vineyard  soils  of  California,  with  perhaps  the  exception  of  some  of 
the  heavier  clays. 

The  only  one  of  these  varieties  which  has  been  planted  extensively 
in  California  is  the  Rupestris  St.  George.  There  can  be  little  doubt, 
however,  that  it  will  fail  to  give  satisfaction  in  many  soils,  and  though 
we  may  not  find  something  better  for  all  our  soils  it  is  probable  that  we 
will  repeat  the  experience  of  Southern  France  and  find  that  in  most 
soils  there  is  some  other  variety  that  gives  better  results.  Without 
attempting  to  describe  these  varieties,  but  to  give  some  idea  of  their 
merits  and  defects  and  of  the  soils  most  suited  to  each,  the  following 
indications  are  given,  based  principally  on  the  opinions  of  L.  Ravaz 
and  Prosper  Gervais,  and  on  a  still  limited  experience  in  California: 

The  Rupestris  St.  George  is  remarkably  vigorous  aed  grows  very 
large,  supporting  the  graft  well  even  without  stakes.  It  roots  easily 
and  makes  excellent  unions  with  most  vinifera  varieties.  It  is  well 
suited  to  deep  soils  where  its  roots  can  penetrate.  Its  defects  are  that 
it  is  very  subject  to  root-rot,  especially  in  moist  soils;  it  suckers  badly 
and  it  suffers  from  drought  in  shallow  soils.  Its  great  vigor  produces 
coulure  with  some  varieties  and  often  necessitates  long  pruning. 

In  moist  or  wet  soils  1616  or  3306  have  given  better  results  in  France 
and  give  indications  of  doing  equally  well  here.  In  drier  soils  3309  will 
probably  be   found   preferable. 

Aramon  Rupestris  No.  2  is  suited  to  the  same  soils  as  Rupestris 
St.  George,  and  does  particularly  well  in  extremely  gravelly  soils.  It 
has  some  of  the  defects  of  the  St.  George  and  is  moreover  more  difficult 
to  graft,  and  its  only  advantage  in  California  is  that  it  is  rather  less 
susceptible  to  root-rot. 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  97 

There  are  no  better  resistant  stocks  than  Riparia  gloire  and  Riparia 
grande  glabre,  wherever  they  are  put  in  soils  that  suit  them.  They 
do  well,  however,  only  in  deep,  rich,  alluvial  soils  which  are  neither 
too  wet  nor  too  dry.  Their  grafts  are  the  most  productive  of  aiJ,  and 
ripen  their  grapes  from  one  to  two  weeks  earlier  than  the  grafts  on 
St.  George.  Their  principal  defect  is  that  they  are  very  particular 
as  to  the  soil,  and  they  never  grow  quite  as  large  as  the  scion.  The 
gloire  is  the  most  vigorous,  and  the  difference  of  diameter  is  less  with 
this  variety  than  with  any  other  Riparia. 

The  Mourvedre  X  Rupestris  1202  is  extremely  vigorous,  roots  and 
grafts  easily,  and  is  well  adapted  to  rich,  sandy  and  moist  soils.  In 
drier  and  poorer  soils  its  resistance  is  perhaps  not  sufficient. 

The  most  promising  varieties  for  general  use  at  present  seem  to  be 
the  two  hybrids  of  Riparia  and  Rupestris,  3306  and  3309.  They  have 
great  resistance  to  the  phylloxera,  root  and  graft  almost  as  easily  as  St. 
George,  and  are  quite  sufficiently  vigorous  to  support  any  variety  of 
vinifera.  The  former  is  more  suited  to  the  moister  soils  and  wherever 
there  is  danger  of  root-rot,  and  the  latter  to  the  drier  soils.  In  general, 
they  are  suited  to  a  larger  variety  of  soils  and  conditions  than  perhaps 
any  other  varieties. 

Riparia  gloire  should  be  planted  only  on  rich,  deep  alluvial  soil 
containing  an  abundance  of  plant  food  and  humus,  what  would  be 
called  good  garden  land,  such  as  river  bank  soil  not  liable  to  overflow. 

In  most  other  soils  Riparia  X  Rupestris  3306  is  to  be  recommended, 
except  those  which  are  rather  dry,  where  3309  is  to  be  preferred,  or 
those  which  are  very  wet,  where  Solonis  X  Riparia  1616  is  surer  to 
give  good  results. 

The  methods  of  pruning  and  training  mother  vines  of  resistant 
varieties  will  differ  in  several  important  respects  from  the  methods 
suitable  for  varieties  grown  for  their  fruit.  In  the  latter  case  we 
should  be  careful  to  leave  as  many  fruitful  buds  as  the  vine  can 
utilize;  in  the  former  the  fruit  is  of  no  value,  and  if  any  is  produced 
it  will  be  at  the  expense  of  the  wood.  Our  object  is  to  produce  as  much 
wood  as  possible. 

In  accordance  with  this  idea  the  mother  vines  are  often  pruned  in 
such  a  way  as  to  force  out  each  year  a  growth  of  watersprouts  from 
the  old  wood.  All  the  canes  on  the  vine  are  cut  off  as  close  to  the 
stump  as  possible. 

It  is  doubtful  if  this  is  the  best  way.  So  many  watersprouts  are 
forced  out  that  the  labor  and  care  of  thinning  them  are  expensive. 
If  they  are  not  thinned  there  is  a  large  growth  of  wood,  but  the  canes 
produced  are  short  and  thin,  and,  therefore,  unsuitable  for  grafting 
stock.     If  this  method   is   adopted   from  the   beginning  the  vine   is 


98  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

reduced  to  a  prostrate  stump,  which  makes  cultivation  difficult,  and  as 
the  vine  becomes  old  it  becomes  full  of  dead  wood  and  difficult  to 
prune. 

A  better  method  is  to  give  the  vine  a  trunk  and  head  exactly  as  in 
pruning  ordinary  vase-formed  vines.  A  trunk  from  15  to  18  inches 
high  and  with  five  or  six  arms  will  make  a  vine  much  easier  to  cultivate 
and  prune  and  at  least  equally  productive  of  good  cuttings.  In 
pruning,  very  short  spurs  are  left,  consisting  simply  of  the  base  bud. 
The  cane  should  be  cut  off  through  the  first  bud  above  the  base  bud. 
This  will  insure  the  starting  of  the  base  bud  and  will  avoid  the  danger 
of  injury  which  occurs  when  the  cut  is  made  too  close  to  the  bud  which 
we  desire  to  have  grow. 

With  this  method  of  pruning  the  arms  will  lengthen  so  slowly  that 
there  will  never  be  occasion  to  cut  them  back.  During  the  spring  and 
early  summer  all  unnecessary  shoots  should  be  removed  in  order  to 
throw  all  the  vigor  of  the  vine  into  those  which  remain. 

A  good,  strong  vine  in  rich  soil  should  produce  from  150  to  300  feet 
of  good  grafting  wood  between  one  quarter  ,and  one  half  of  an  inch 
in  diameter,  and  a  certain  amount  of  smaller  wood  good  for  rooting. 
Experience  only  will  tell  how  many  shoots  should  be  left  to  a  vine. 
It  will  depend  on  the  age  of  the  vine,  the  variety  and  the  soil.  If  too 
few  are  left  there  is  apt  to  be  too  much  thick  wood  unsuitable  for 
grafting,  especially  with  certain  varieties  such  as  Rupestris  St.  George. 
If  too  many  are  left  there  will  be  too  many  small  cuttings. 

Some  varieties  of  stocks  produce  good  grafting  wood  if  the  canes 
are  allowed  to  grow  over  the  surface  of  the  ground  without  support. 
This  has  a  tendency  with  some  varieties  to  encourage  the  growth  of 
laterals  and  to  make  the  canes  short  and  stocky. 

To  overcome  this  defect  high  poles  are  sometimes  placed  at  each 
vine,  and  the  canes  kept  in  an  upright  position  by  being  tied  to 
these  poles.  The  poles  are  sometimes  15  or  20  feet  high.  This  method 
produces  an  abundance  of  excellent  grafting  cuttings,  but  is  expensive 
and  troublesome.  A  more  practical  method  is  to  put  a  high  stake — 10 
ieet  high  at  the  end  of  each  row  and  to  stretch  a  wire  at  that  height 
along  the  row.  The  shoots  are  then  trained  up  to  this  wire  by  means  of 
strings  renewed  every  year.     (See  Fig.  2.) 

Making  and  Conservation  of  Cuttings. — Cuttings  for  grafting,  to  be 
used  either  as  stocks  or  scions,  may  be  taken  from  the  vines  at  any 
time  between  the  fall  of  the  leaves  in  the  autumn  and  two  weeks  before 
the  swelling  of  the  buds  in  the  spring.  They  may  be  used  as  soon  as 
made,  or  kept  for  an  indefinite  time,  provided  they  are  given  proper 
care. 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION. 


99* 


It  is  usually  more  convenient  to  take  the  canes  from  the  vines,  place- 
them  in  an  outhouse  or  shed,  and  make  them  up  into  cuttings  in  rainy 
weather.  In  a  shed  they  may  be  left  without  protection  for  a  couple 
of  weeks,  but  it  is  best  not  to  leave  them  longer,  especially  in  dry 
weather. 

The  scion  cuttings  are  conveniently  cut  in  lengths  of  from  18  inches 
to  3  feet,  and  tied  in  bundles  of  100  to  250  if  they  are  to  be  transported 
to  a  distance.  They  should  be  tied  up  in  such  a  way  that  the  butte 
of  all  of  them  are  even ;  this  will  prevent  any  of  them  drying  out  when. 


FIG.  2.    Mother  vines  of  resistant  stock.     (From  catalog  of  F.  Richter,  Montpellier.) 

they  are  heeled  in.  If  they  are  to  be  kept  for  grafting  where  cut,  they 
should  be  made  into  loosely  tied  small  bundles,  which  should  be  well 
covered  with  loose  soil  or  sand,  care  being  taken  to  cause  some  of  the 
sand  to  fall  in  among  the  cuttings  in  the  center  of  the  bundle.  They 
may  be  heeled  in  outside  in  some  place  protected  from  the  sun  and 
from  water.  They  are  safer,  however,  and  will  remain  dormant  longer 
if  placed  in  a  sand  pile  under  a  shed  or  in  an  underground  cellar. 
There  should  be  a  few  inches  of  sand  both  under  and  above  the 
cuttings. 

The  sand  in  which  the  cuttings  are  placed  should  be  fairly  dry.  If 
too  dry  the  cuttings  may  die,  but  the  chief  danger  is  that  it  will  be  too 
wet,  in  which  case  they  will  rot.  The  sand  should  not  contain  more 
than  five  per  cent  of  moisture.    With  less  than  this  amount  it  will  not 


100  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

feel  moist  to  the  hand.  If  a  handful  of  sand  is  taken  it  should  not  form 
a  ball  when  squeezed  and  should  not  leave  the  hand  moist.  There  is 
very  little  danger  of  getting  the  sand  too  dry,  unless  it  is  taken  from 
the  top  of  a  pile  which  has  been  exposed  to  the  hot  sun  for  several 
days.  An  ideal  method  of  keeping  cuttings  is  to  cover  them  with  a 
mixture  of  dry  moss  and  a  little  powdered  charcoal  in  a  cool,  moist 
cellar.  The  cuttings  should  be  loose  or  in  small  bundles  in  order  that 
they  may  all  be  in  contact  with  the  moss. 

Cuttings  to  be  used  as  stocks  should  be  handled  in  the  same  way, 
except  that  it  is  preferable  to  cut  them  up  into  the  lengths  which  will 
be  used.  The  length  will  vary  from  8  to  15  inches,  according  to 
whether  long-  or  short-grafted  plants  are  wanted.  For  planting  in 
very  dry  soils  which  are  very  open  and  liable  to  dry  down  deep,  and 
for  hillsides  where  the  unions  must  be  placed  higher,  long  grafts  are 
desirable.  As  a  rule,  a  cutting  of  10  inches  is  quite  long  enough  for 
grafting.  Longer  cuttings  are  more  difficult  to  handle  in  the  nursery, 
and  shorter  cuttings  require  more  care  in  the  vineyard.  The  stock 
cuttings  should  be  kept  dormant  like  the  scions,  but  a  slight  swelling 
of  the  buds  is  not  so  serious  in  this  case.  If  the  scion  buds  have 
commenced  to  swell  they  should  not  be  used,  as  there  will  be  too  many 
fail  to  grow.  If  the  stocks  have  started  a  little  they  can  still  be  used 
successfully,  provided  that  the  bark  has  not  become  loose. 

Time  of  Grafting. — Cutting  grafting  may  be  commenced  in  California 
by  the  first  of  January,  or  even  sooner,  but  the  best  results  are  obtained 
by  grafting  in  February  and  March.  The  work  may  be  continued 
through  April  and  even  in  May  if  the  cuttings  can  be  kept  dormant. 

Preparation  of  Stocks. — The  first  thing  to  do  when  everything  is 
ready  for  grafting  is  to  prepare  the  stocks.  If  it  has  not  already  been, 
done  the  resistant  cuttings  should  be  cut  into  the  desired  lengths — 
say  10  inches.  This  should  be  done  as  accurately  as  possible,  and  some 
kind  of  gauge  will  be  needed.  This  gauge  may  be  simply  marks  cut 
in  the  work  table,  or  a  stick  of  the  required  length  held  in  the  hand. 

The  cut  at  the  bottom  should  be  made  through  a  bud  in  such  a  way 
as  to  leave  the  diaphragm  or  partition  which  interrupts  the  pith  at 
this  place.  The  top  cut  should  then  be  made  as  near  10  inches  from 
the  bottom  as  is  possible,  while  at  the  same  time  leaving  at  least  1% 
inches  of  internode  above  the  top  bud.  This  piece  of  internode  is 
necessary  for  convenience  in  grafting. 

Fig.  3  shows  a  simple  gauge  for  insuring  accuracy  in  cutting  the 
stocks.  It  consists  of  a  piece  of  1-inch  board  18  inches  long  and  6 
inches  wide,  to  the  middle  of  which  is  nailed  a  piece  of  wood  1  inch 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  101 

square  in  section  extending  the  whole  length  of  the  board.  The  length 
of  the  stock  is  determined  by  an  adjustable  piece  of  wood  3  inches  long 
placed  at  right  angles  to  the  longitudinal  piece.  A  corner  of  the  board 
opposite  this  adjustable  piece  is  cut  off  in  such  a  way  that  the  outer 
edge  of  the  board  is  1%  inches  shorter  than  the  other  edge.  A  guide 
line  is  then  cut  in  the  board  parallel  with  the  slanting  edge  left  by  the 
saw  and  1%  inches  from  this  edge.  In  using  the  gauge  the  base  of 
the  cutting  is  placed  against  the  adjustable  piece  and  the  cutting  moved 
backwards  or  forwards  until  a  bud  falls  just  to  the  right  of  the  guide 
line.  The  cutting  is  then  cut  off  level  with  the  edge  of  the  board.  This 
gives  each  stock  l1/^  inches  of  internode  for  grafting  above  the  top 
bud,  with  a  maximum  variation  of  1%  inches  in  total  length.  This 
variation  is  of  little  consequence  and  can  not  be  avoided.  Greater 
variations  give  trouble  in  planting.     Any  inconvenience  due  to  even 


FIG.  .'!.    Gauge  for  cutting  stocks. 

this  variation  may  be  avoided  by  sorting  the  cuttings  into  two  or  three 
lots  according  to  length  after  cutting,  though  this  sorting  is  perhaps 
best  deferred  until  the  grafts  are  made. 

The  next  process  is  the  disbudding  of  the  stocks.  If  this  is  done 
properly,  it  decreases  greatly  the  number  of  stock  suckers  which  will 
appear  in  the  nursery  and  which  must  be  removed.  "With  some  varie- 
ties, such  as  Riparia,  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  cut  out  the  main  bud. 
This  is  most  easily  and  quickly  done  with  a  knife.  With  other  varieties 
such  as  the  Rupestris  St.  George,  it  is  necessary  to  cut  more  deeply  and 
to  remove  not  only  the  main  bud,  but  also  the  woody  enlargement  at 
its  base  containing  a  number  of  dormant  buds  which  readily  give  rise 
to  suckers.  This  is  most  easily  done  with  a  sharp  pair  of  pruning 
shears.  Every  bud  on  the  stock  should  be  removed.  It  is  a  mistake 
to  leave  the  bottom  bud,  as  is  sometimes  done.  This  bud  is  of  no  use,  as 
rooting  takes  place  just  as  well  without  it,  and  if  it  forms  a  sucker, 
this  sucker  is  the  most  troublesome  of  all  to  remove  on  account  of  its 
position.  ' 

2— bul.  180. 


102  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

Preparation  of  Scions.— A  scion  may  consist  of  one  bud  or  of  two 
buds.  There  are  many  advantages  in  using  one  bud,  the  chief  of  which 
is  that  it  makes  it  possible  to  have  every  scion  the  same  length  what- 
ever the  length  of  the  internodes.  With  two-bud  scions  it  is  impossible 
to  avoid  a  difference  of  2  or  3  inches  in  the  length,  owing  to  the  varia- 
tions in  the  distances  between  the  buds.  If  the  scions  are  of  the  same 
length  it  is  possible  to  have  all  the  unions  at  the  same  distance  below 
the  surface  in  the  nursery.  This  is  a  most  important  point.  The  only 
advantage  of  two-bud  scions  is  that  in  ground  which  bakes  on  top  it 
is  possible  to  have  the  top  bud  above  the  surface  of  the  ground  and 
yet  have  the  union  sufficiently  deep  to  prevent  drying  out.  Where  the 
soil  does  not  bake  the  scions  may  be  covered  up  completely  and  one 
bud  is  sufficient. 

The  scions  should  be  cut  with  about  2%  inches  of  internode  below 
the  bud  and  at  least  %  inch  of  internode  above  the  top  bud.  If  cut  too 
close,  especially  with  blunt  pruning  shears,  there  is  danger  of  injuring 
the  bud.     A  sharp  knife  is  the  best  tool  for  cutting  scions. 

Grading  the  Cuttings. — For  the  best  results  the  stock  should  be  of 
exactly  the  same  diameter  as  the  scion.  If  they  differ  much  they  may 
unite,  but  the  union  will  usually  be  imperfect.  The  more  nearly  they 
match  in  size  the  more  perfect  the  unions  and  the  larger  the  percentage 
of  first-class  grafts. 

If  the  cuttings  are  not  sorted  beforehand  the  grafter  loses  a  great 
deal  of  time  in  looking  for  scions  to  fit  his  stocks.  A  good  deal  of  this 
time  may  be  saved  if  the  cuttings  are  sorted  by  eye  into  three  lots— 
large,  medium,  and  small — before  commencing  to  graft.  This  division, 
however,  is  not  fine  enough,  and  the  grafter  will  still  have  to  waste 
much  time  in  selection. 

It  is  not  practicable  to  grade  the  cuttings  more  accurately  than  this 
by  eye,  and  some  mechanical  gauge  or  calibrator  is  necessary  for  greater 
accuracy.     Several  forms  have  been  used  in  practice  with  success. 

The  commonest  form  is  the  notch  grader  shown  at  the  top  of  Fig.  4. 
This  consists  of  a  brass  plate  12  inches  long  and  2  inches  wide,  in 
which  are  made  six  or  more  notches.  Each  of  these  notches  differs 
from  the  next  nearest  by  one  sixteenth  of  an  inch,  and  they  usually 
vary  from  four  sixteenths,  the  smallest,  to  ten  sixteenths,  the  largest. 
By  the  use  of  this  grader  the  cuttings  may  be  separated  into  eight  or 
more  sizes.  These  sizes  differ  from  each  other  by  the  same  absolute 
amount,  i.  e.,  one  sixteenth  of  an  inch,  but  the  relative  difference  in 
the  smaller  sizes  is  greater  than  in  the  larger  sizes.  That  is  to  say, 
size  No.  1  is  four  sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  or  four  fifths  the 
size  of  No.  2,  which  is  five  sixteenths  of  an  inch,  while  size  No.  7  is  ten 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  or  ten  elevenths  of  size  No.  8.     The 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  103 

greatest  accuracy,  therefore,  is  obtained  where  it  is  least  needed,  viz., 
in  the  larger  sizes. 

To  overcome  this  objection  and  also  to  facilitate  the  work  of  sorting, 
the  slot  grader  shown  at  the  bottom  of  Fig.  4  was  devised  at  the 
Experiment  Station.     This  grader  consists  of  a  brass  plate  in  which 


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FIG.  4.    Graders. 


Notch  Grader,  above.    Each  notch  is  of  the  width  indicated  by  the  corresponding  number, 
which  represents  sixteenths  of  an  inch. 
Slot  Grader,  below.    Width  of  slot  at  e,  £  inch;  at  a,  \  inch.    Length  of  slot  from  e  to  a,  7  inches. 

is  cut  a  tapering  slot  terminated  at  each  end  by  circular  enlargements. 
Fig.  4  shows  the  exact  dimensions  and  Fig.  5  the  general  appearance 
of  the  grader.  The  brass  plate  is  screwed  on  to  a  wooden  block  in 
which  is  cut  a  groove  three  fourths  of  an  inch  deep  and  corresponding 
to  the  slot  in  the  plate.     The  cuttings  are  graded  by  inserting  the  end 


FIG.  5.    Slot  grader  mounted  on  a  wooden  block. 

which  is  to  be  grafted  in  the  wide  end  of  the  slot  and  then  passing  it 
along  the  slot  until  it  can  go  no  farther.  Cuttings  over  one  half  of  an 
inch  in  diameter  will  not  enter  the  slot,  while  those  under  one  fourth  of 
an  inch  will  pass  completely  through.  Cuttings  of  dimensions  between 
these  two  extremes  will  stop  the  nearer  the  large  end  of  the  slot  the 
thicker  they  are.  In  order  to  grade  them  into  various  sizes,  therefore, 
all  that  is  necessary  is  to  mark  lines  on  the  brass  plate,  or,  better,  on 


104 


UNIVERSITY   OF    CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 


the  top  of  the  wooden  block,  and  to  sort  them  into  boxes  according  to 
the  position  in  the  slot  where  they  come  to  rest.  The  nearer  we  place 
the  lines  the  more  grades  of  cuttings  we  will  have  and  the  less  varia- 
tion there  will  be  in  each  grade.  Fig.  6  shows  the  various  positions 
of  the  lines  to  make  four,  five,  or  six  grades  of  the  cuttings  between 
2/4  and  Y2  incn  in  diameter.  To  construct  the  grader  the  only  measure- 
ments needed  are  the  length  from  a  to  e  (7  inches)  and  the  width  at  e 
(V2  inch)  and  at  a  (14  inch). 

The  scale  can  be  cut  with  a  chisel  on  the  block  and  the  place  of  the 
lines  determined  with  sufficient  accuracy  by  means  of  a  rule  showing 
tenths  of  an  inch.  The  distances  between  the  lines  of  the  three  scales 
have  been  calculated  in  such  a  way  that  each  size  bears  a  certain  ratio 
to  the  one  next  to  it.  The  ratios  used  are  .8409,  .8705,  and  .8909, 
respectively.  This  means  that  if  we  use  the  first  scale  each  grade  of 
cuttings  will  average  almost  exactly  five  sixths  of  the  diameter  of  the 
next  larger  size.  With  the  second  scale  the  difference  will  be  seven 
eighths,  and  with  the  third  eight  ninths.  Or,  looking  at  it  another 
way,  it  means  that  the  cuttings  in  one  grade  will  not  vary  more  than 
as  5 :  6  in  the  first  case,  7 :  8  in  the  second,  and  8 :  9  in  the  third. 

The  following  table  shows  the  average  diameters  of  the  several 
grades  (see  Fig  6)  : 


Scale  I. 

Scale  1 1 . 

Scale  III. 

Size  1  less  than  .250  in. 

SiV.e  1  less  than  .250  in. 

Size  1  less  than  .250  in. 

Size  2  average      .274  in. 
Size  3  average      .325  in. 
Size  4  average      .387  in. 
Size  5  average      .460  in. 

Size  2  average      .269  in. 
Size  3  average      .309  in. 
Size  4  average      .354  in. 
Size  5  average      .407  in. 
Size  6  average      .468  in. 

Size  2  average      .265  in. 
Size  3  average      .298  in. 
Size  4  average      .334  in. 
Size  5  average      .375  in. 
Size  6  average      .426  in. 
Size  7  average      .478  in. 

Size  6  more  than  .500  in. 

Size  7  more  than  .500 in. 

Size  8  more  than  .500  in. 

If  the  grader  is  used  according  to  the  directions  given  below  the 
cuttings  will  be  sorted,  if  scale  I  is  used,  into  six  sizes.  The  largest  of 
these  will  be  over  y2  inch  and  the  smallest  under  14  inch ;  these  should 
be  rejected.  The  intermediate  will  then  fall  into  four  sizes,  which  will 
have  the  following  diameters  indicated  in  the  table : 

Average  Extreme 

Diameter.  Variation. 

Size    2 2736  in.  .0473 

Size    3 3254  in.  .0562 

Size    4 3870  in.  .0670 

Size    5 :  .  . 4603  in.  .0795 


These  sizes  differ  from  each  other  in  such  a  way  that  the  average 
diameter  of  each  is  almost  exactly  five  sixths  of  that  of  the  next  larger 


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306  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

size.  Or,  looking  at  it  another  way,  the  smallest  cutting  in  any  grade 
is  just  five  sixths  of  the  diameter  of  the  largest  cutting  of  the  same 
grade. 

The  green  bark  or  growing  layer  on  small  cuttings  is  thinner  than  that 
on  large  cuttings,  but  in  all  it  is  just  about  one  sixth  of  the  diameter  of 
the  whole.  If,  therefore,  the  smallest  scion  of  any  grade  is  grafted  on 
the  largest  stock  of  the  same  grade  the  outer  edge  of  the  bark  of  the 
scion  will  be  in  contact  with  the  inner  edge  of  the  bark  of  the  stock. 
This  brings  the  growing  layers  sufficiently  near  to  insure  the  formation 
of  a  good  union.  This,  moreover,  is  an  extreme  case;  the  great  majority 
of  the  grafts  will  fit  much  more  nearly  than  this. 

Comparing  these  results  with  those  obtained  with  the  notch  grader  it 
will  be  seen  that  the  cuttings  between  y±  incn  and  %  inch  are  sorted 
into  only  four  sizes  with  the  slot,  while  the  notches  make  five  sizes 
of  the  same  cuttings.  This  reduction  of  the  number  of  sizes  is  of  some 
practical  advantage,  especially  as  there  is  no  loss  of  accuracy,  but 
rather  a  gain,  as  the  smallest  sizes  vary  only  as  5 :  6,  while  those  of  the 
notch  grader  vary  as  4:5. 

A  practised  workman  will  grade  almost  as  quickly  with  a  notch 
grader  as  with  the  slot,  but  in  the  hands  of  a  beginner  the  latter  is 
much  more  rapid  and  accurate. 

Four  grades  is  the  least  number  that  should  be  made  of  cuttings 
between  x/4  inch  and  %  inch.  With  this  number  some  of  the  cuttings 
will  not  fit  exactly  enough  to  satisfy  some  grafters,  and  a  little  eye 
sorting  may  have  to  be  done  while  grafting.  This  sorting  by  the 
grafter  consumes  a  great  deal  of  valuable  time,  and  it  is  better  to  use 
a  more  closely  graduated  scale  if  the  first  does  not  give  satisfaction. 
The  third  scale  is  sufficiently  close  to  satisfy  the  most  particular. 

In  using  the  grader,  every  cutting  should  be  measured  through  its 
longest  diameter  or  much  of  the  accuracy  of  the  sorting  will  be  lost. 
The  flattening  is  always  on  the  side  toward  which  the  bud  points,  so 
that  the  longest  diameter  is  that  at  right  angles  to  the  one  passing 
through  the  bud.  In  using  the  slot  grader,  therefore,  the  cutting 
should  always  be  held  with  the  bud  pointing  horizontally. 

Advantage  may  be  taken  of  the  difference  in  the  two  diameters  to 
compensate  for  the  variation  in  size  of  cuttings  in  the  same  grade.  As 
the  cuttings  vary  as  5 :  6  and  the  two  diameters  vary  in  about  the  same 
ratio,  the  smallest  scion  cut  on  the  flat  side  will  fit  accurately  the 
largest  stock  cut  on' the  narrow  side.  The  only  consequence  is  a  slight 
angle  at  the  point  of  union,  as  shown  in  Fig.  7,  D  1  and  3. 

Methods  of  Uniting  Stock  and  Scion.— Innumerable  methods  of 
cutting  and  splitting  the  stocks  and  scions  have  been  described  and 
recommended.     We  will  have  little  difficulty  in  choosing  the  best  of 


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FIG.  7.    Three  Methods  of  Bench-Grafting  Cuttings. 


108 


UNIVERSITY   OF    CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 


these  if  we  remember  the  fact  that  any  method  which  brings  the  grow- 
ing layers  of  the  two  parts  of  the  graft  into  juxtaposition  and  keeps 
them  there  firmly  until  they  unite  will  give  good  results.  Among  those 
which  fulfill  these  conditions  the  best  will  be  those  which  mutilate  the 
tissues  least,  leave  the  least  amount  of  cut  surfaces  exposed,  and  are  the 
most  easily  and  rapidly  performed. 

These  considerations  restrict  our  choice  in  bench  grafting  vines  by 
hand  to  two  methods— the  tongue,  whip,  or  English  cleft,  and  the  wire- 
graft. 

Tongue  Grafting. — When  the  stocks  and  scions  are  prepared  and 
graded  the  grafter  takes  a  box  of  stocks  and  a  box  of  the  corresponding 
size  of  scions  and  unites  them.  Each  is  cut  at  the  same  angle  in 
such  a  way  that  when  placed  together  the  cut  surface  of  one  exactly 
fits  and  covers  the  whole  of  the  cut  surface  of  the  other.     (See  Fig.  7, 


FI<i.  s.    Showing  method  of  holding  the  knife  and  cutting. 

A  1.)  The  length  of  cut  surface  should  be  from  three  to  four  times 
the  diameter  of  the  cutting,  the  shorter  cut  for  the  larger  sizes  and  the 
longer  for  the  thinner.  This  will  correspond  to  an  angle  of  from  14.5 
to  19.5  degrees.  The  cut  should  be  made  with  a  sliding  movement  of 
the  knife,  as  illustrated  in  Fig  8.  This  will  make  the  cut  more  easily 
and  more  smoothly. 

The  cut  should  be  made  with  a  single  quick  motion  of  the  knife.  If 
the  first  cut  is  not  satisfactory,  a  completely  new  one  should  be  made. 
There  should  be  no  paring  of  the  cut,  as  this  will  make  an  irregular 
or  wavy  surface  and  prevent  the  cuttings  coming  together  closely  in 
all  parts. 

The  tongues  are  made  with  a  slow,  sliding  motion  of  the  knife.  They 
are  commenced  slightly  above  one  third  of  the  distance  from  the  sharp 
end  of  the  bevel  and  cut  down  until  the  tongue  is  just  a  trifle  more  than 
one  third  the  length  of  the  cut  surface.  The  tongue  should  be  cut, 
not  split.  The  knife  should  not  follow  the  grain  of  the  wood,  but 
should  be  slanted  in  such  a  way  that  the  tongue  will  be  about  one 
half  as  thick  as  it  would  be  if  made  by  splitting.     Before  withdrawing 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS— GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  109 

the  knife  it  is  bent  over  in  order  to  open  out  the  tongue.  This  very 
much  facilitates  the  placing  together  of  stock  and  scion.  (See  Fig.  7, 
A  2,  3.) 

The  stock  and  scion  are  now  placed  together  and,  if  everything  has 
been  done  properly,  there  will  be  no  cut  surface  visible  and  the 
extremity  of  neither  stock  nor  scion  will  project  over  the  cut  surface 
of  the  other.  (See  Fig.  7,  A  4.)  It  is  much  better  that  the  points 
should  not  quite  reach  the  bottom  of  the  cut  surface  than  that  they 
should  overlap,  as  the  union  will  be  more  complete  and  the  scions  will 
be  less  liable  to  throw  out  roots.  If  the  points  do  overlap,  the  over- 
lapping portion  should  be  cut  off,  as  in  the  Champin  grafts.  (See 
Fig.  7,  C.) 

A  skillful  grafter,  by  following  the  above-described  method,  will 
make  grafts  most  of  which  will  hold  together  very  firmly.  Many  of 
them  would  be  displaced,  however,  in  subsequent  operations,  so  that 
it  is  necessary  to  tie  them.  This  is  done  with  raffia  or  waxed  string. 
The  oi] ly  object  of  the  tying  is  to  keep  the  stock  and  scion  together 
until  they  unite  by  the  growth  of  their  own  tissues,  so  that  the  less 
material  used  the  better,  provided  this  object  is  attained.  For  the 
formation  of  healing  tissue  air  is  necessary,  so  that  clay,  wax,  tinfoil, 
or  anything  that  would  exclude  the  air  should  not  be  used.  The  tying 
material  is  passed  twice  around  the  point  of  the  scion  to  hold  it  down 
firmly,  and  then  with  one  or  two  wide  spirals  it  is  carried  to  the  point 
of  the  stock,  which  is  fastened  firmly  with  two  more  turns  and  the 
end  of  the  string  passed  under  the  last  turn.  The  less  string  is  used 
the  more  easily  it  is  removed  later  in  the  nursery.  (See  Fig.  7,  A  5 
and  C  5.) 

Untreated  raffia  should  be  used  for  late  grafts  which  are  to  be 
planted  directly  out  in  the  nursery,  but  if  the  grafts  are  to  be  placed 
first  in  a  callusing  bed  it  is  best  to  bluestone  the  raffia  in  order  to 
prevent  rotting  before  the  grafts  are  planted.  This  is  done  by  steep- 
ing the  bundles  of  raffia  in  a  three  per  cent  solution  of  bluestone  for 
a  few  hours  and  then  hanging  them  up  to  dry.  Before  using,  the 
raffia  should  be  washed  quickly  in  a  stream  of  water  in  order  to 
remove  the  bluestone  which  has  crystallized  on  the  outside  and  which 
might  corrode  the  graft. 

Some  grafters  prefer  waxed  string  for  grafting.  The  string  should 
be  strong  enough  to  hold  the  graft,  but  thin  enough  to  be  broken  by 
hand.  No.  18  knitting  cotton  is  a  good  size.  It  is  waxed  by  soaking 
the  balls  in  melted  grafting  wax  for  several  hours.  The  string  will 
absorb  the  wax,  and  may  then  be  placed  on  one  side  until  needed.  A 
good  wax  for  this  purpose  is  made  by  melting  together  one  part  of 
tallow,  two  parts  of  beeswax,  and  three  parts  of  rosin. 


110 


UNIVERSITY    OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 


Wire  Grafting. — The  merits  claimed  for  this  method  are  that  it 
is  more  rapid-,  requires  less  skill,  and  does  away  with  the  troublesome 
tying  and  still  more  troublesome  removal  of  the  tying  material.  Prac- 
tised grafters  can  obtain  as  large  a  percentage  of  No.  1  unions  by  this 
method  as  by  any  other,  and  unpractised  grafters  can  do  almost  as 


FIG.  9.     Wire-cutter. 


well  as  practised.    Another  advantage  of  the  method  is  that  the  scions 
have  less  tendency  to  make  roots  than  with  the  tongue  graft. 

It  consists  essentially  of  the  use  of  a  short  piece  of  galvanized  iron 
wire  inserted  in  the  pith  of  stock  and  scion  for  the  purpose  of  holding 
them  together,  thus  replacing  both  tongues  and  raffia.  It  has  been 
objected  that  the  iron  would  have  a  deleterious  effect  on  the  tissues 
of  the  graft,  corroding  them,  or  causing  them  to  decay.  There  seems, 
however,  no  reason  to  expect  any  such  result,  and  vines  grafted  in  this 
way  have  been  bearing  for  years  without  showing  any  such  effect. 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  Ill 

The  preparation  and  grading  of  stocks  and  scions  are  exactly  the 
same  for  this  method  as  for  the  tongue  graft. 

Stock  and  scion  are  cut  at  an  angle  of  45  degrees.  (See  Fig.  7,  B  1.) 
A  piece  of  galvanized  iron  wire  two  inches  long  is  then  pushed  one 
inch  into  the  firmest  pith.  (See  Fig.  7,  B  2.)  This  will  usually  be 
the  pith  of  the  stock,  but  it  will  depend  on  the  varieties  being  grafted. 
The  scion  is  then  pushed  on  to  the  wire  and  pressed  down  until  it  is  in 
contact  with  the  stock.      (See  Fig.  7,  B  3,  5.)      If  the  cuttings  have 


FIG.  10.    Stand  for  making  bundles. 

large  pith  it  is  better  to  use  two  pieces  of  wire,  one  placed  in  the  stock 
first  and  the  other  in  the  scion,  as  shown  in  Fig.  7,  B  4. 

The  length  of  wire  to  use  will  vary  with  the  size  and  firmness  of  the 
cuttings,  but  2  inches  will  usually  be  found  most  satisfactory.  Wire 
of  No.  17  gauge  is  the  most  useful  size.  Fig.  9  shows  a  device  for 
rapidly  cutting  up  the  wire  into  the  desired  lengths. 

Making  Bundles.— If  the  grafts  are  to  be  planted  out  directly  in 
the  nursery  they  may  be  simply  laid  in  boxes  or  trays,  covered  with 
damp  sacks,  and  carried  out  to  be  planted  as  soon  as  made.  It  is 
usually  better,  however,  to  place  them  for  several  weeks  in  a  callusing 
bed  before  planting.  In  this  case  it  is  necessary  for  convenience  of 
handling  to  tie  them  up  into  bundles.     No  more  than  twenty  grafts 


112  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

should  be  placed  in  a  bundle,  and  ten  is  better.  If  the  bundles  are 
too  large  there  is  danger  of  the  grafts  in  the  middle  becoming  moldy 
or  dry. 

A  stand  similar  to  that  shown  in  Fig.  10  is  very  convenient.  It 
consists  of  a  piece  of  board  12  inches  by  6  inches,  on  one  end  of' 
which  is  nailed  a  cleat  6  inches  by  4  inches  and  under  the  other  end 
a  support  of  the  same  size.  Two  4-inch  wire  nails  are  driven  through 
the  board  from  below,  4  inches  apart  and  5  inches  from  the  cleat.  Two 
other  4-inch  nails  are  driven  similarly  at  1%  inches  from  the  other 
end.  The  grafts  are  laid  on  this  stand  with  the  scions  resting  against s 
the  cleat,  and  are  then  tied  with  the  two  pieces  of  bluestoned  raffia 
that  have  previously  been  placed  above  each  pair  of  nails.  This 
arrangement  insures  all  the  scions,  and  therefore  the  unions,  being  at 
the  same  level,  and  puts  both  ties  below  the  union  where  they  will  not 
strain  the  graft.  The  tying  is  more  expeditious  and  less  liable  to 
disturb  the  unions  than  if  the  bundles  are  made  without  a  guide. 

A  skillful  grafter  will  make  about  one  hundred  tongue  grafts  on 
cuttings  per  hour,  or  from  sixty-five  to  seventj'-five  per  hour  if  he  does 
the  tying  as  well.  Wire  grafts  can  be  made  at  the  rate  of  two  hundred 
and  fifty  or  more  per  hour,  and  by  proper  division  of  labor  where  several 
grafters  are  employed  this  number  can  be  easily  exceeded.  These  esti- 
mates do  not  include  the  preparation  and  grading  of  the  cuttings. 

Grafting  Rooted  Cuttings.— Instead  of  grafting  cutting  on  cutting 
before  rooting,  one  may  graft  a  scion  cutting  on  a  stock  cutting  which 
has  been  rooted  in  the  nursery  the  previous  season.  In  this  way  resistant 
cuttings  which  are  too  small  to  graft  become  large  enough  the  following 
year  and  may  be  utilized.  The  principal  use  of  this  method,  however, 
is  in  producing  grafts  on  stocks  which  root  with  difficulty,  such  as 
Lenoir  and  Berlandieri.  If  we  make  cutting  grafts  on  these  varieties 
the  percentage  of  successes  is  extremely  small,  on  account  of  the  large 
number  which  fail  to  root.  They  unite  easily,  however,  with  the  scion, 
so  that  if  we  defer  the  grafting  until  the  stock  has  rooted  we  save 
the  expense  of  making  a  large  number  of  grafts  which  never  grow. 

With  cutting  grafts  on  stocks  such  as  Riparia  and  Rupestris  from 
50  to  60  per  cent  of  No.  1  unions  is  considered  an  excellent  average. 
With  rooted  stocks  the  average  should  be  from  75  to  80  per  cent  with 
nearly  all  stocks.  The  former  method  is  preferable,  however,  wherever 
practicable,  as  a  whole  year  is  saved  and  the  unions  on  the  whole  are 
better. 

The  same  methods,  tongue  or  wire  graft,  may  be  used  with  rooted 
stocks  as  with  cuttings.  The  only  difference  lies  in  the  preparation 
of  the  stocks.  The  stocks  are  cut  down  to  a  uniform  length  as  nearly 
as  possible  and  the  scions  inserted  on  the  original  cutting.     The  scion 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  113 

should  not  be  grafted  on  to  the  growth  of  the  previous  season,  even 
when  it  is  large  enough,  as  the  numerous  suckers  which  would  be  pro- 
duced would  be  very  troublesome  to  remove  and  would  interfere  with 
the  uniting. 

The  roots  of  the  stock  should  be  cut  back  to  stubs  not  more  than 
one  inch  in  length.  If  left  longer  they  make  the  handling  of  the 
grafts  very  troublesome  and  are  of  little,  if  any,  use. 

Callusing.— When  the  grafts  are  made,  the  cuttings  are  completely 
dormant,  but  as  soon  as  they  are  placed  in  the  proper  favorable  con- 
ditions certain  of  their  tissues  become  active  and  the  changes  and  vital 
processes  commence  which  bring  about  the  rootftig  of  the  stock,  the 
sprouting  of  the  scion,  and  the  uniting  of  one  to  the  other. 


:»i 


FIG.  11.    Callusing  bed. 

These  favorable  conditions  do  not  usually  exist  in  the  nursery  at 
the  time  of  grafting,  so  that  if  the  grafts  are  planted  out  directly 
many  of  them  will  dry  out  or  be  injured  by  cold  and  moisture  before 
they  can  commence  active  growth.  For  this  reason  it  is  always  best, 
except  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  grafting  season,  to  "stratify"  the 
grafts  in  a  "callusing"  bed,  where  the  conditions  of  moisture,  tem- 
perature, and  aeration  can  be  controlled. 

This  callusing  bed  is  usually  a  pile  of  clean  sand  placed  on  the  south 
side  of  a  wall  or  building  and  surrounded  by  a  board  partition  where 
there  is  no  possibility  of  its  becoming  too  wet  by  the  flow  of  water 
from  a  higher  level  or  from  an  overhanging  roof.  It  should  be  pro- 
tected, if  necessary,  by  a  surrounding  ditch.  It  should  be  furnished 
with  a  removable  cover  of  canvas  or  boards  to  protect  it  from  rain  and 
to  enable  the  temperature  to  be  controlled  by  the  admission  or  exclusion 
of  the  sun's  rays.  A  water-proof  wagon-cover,  black  on  one  side  and 
white  on  the  other,  is  excellent  for  this  purpose. 


114 


UNIVERSITY   OF    CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 


The  bottom  of  the  callusing  bed  is  first  covered  with  2  or  3  inches 
of  sand.  The  bundles  of  grafts  are  then  placed  in  a  row  along  one  end 
of  the  bed,  and  sand  well  filled  in  around  them.    The  bundles  should  be 


^f^i^lP: 


;■;,.,!, v.:  £-<v 


FIG.  12.    Plan  of  Callusing  bed. 


placed  in  a  slightly  inclined  position  with  the  scions  uppermost,  and 
the  sand  should  be  dry  enough  so  that  it  sifts  in  between  the  grafts  in 
the  bundle.  The  bundles  of  grafts  are  then  covered  up  completely 
with  sand,  leaving  it  at  least  2  inches  deep  above  the  top  of  the  scion. 


FIG.  13.    Wire  graft  properly  callused. 

Another  row  is  then  placed  in  the  same  manner  until  the  bed  is  full. 
Finally  a  layer  of  2  or  3  inches  of  moss  or  straw  is  placed  over  all. 
(See  Figs.  11  and  12.) 

The  callusing  bed  may  be  made  much  deeper  and  the  bundles  of 
grafts  laid  horizontally  in  superposed  layers.     This  method  economizes 


Ripcxn&v  Gloire    de  Honipellier 


FIG.  14.     Effect  of  different  amounts  of  moisture  on  the  production 
of  callus,  roots  and  shoots. 

A.  Cuttings  callused  in  sand  containing  15  per  cent  of  moisture.  B.  Cuttings  callused 
in  sand  containing  10  per  cent  of  moisture.  C.  Cuttings  callused  in  sand  containing  5  per 
cent  of  moisture.     D.  Cuttings  callused  in  sand  containing  2\  per  cent  of  moisture. 


116 


UNIVERSITY    OF   CALIFORNIA  —  EXPERIMENT   STATION. 


room,  but  makes  it  difficult  to  maintain  the  temperature  and  moisture 
conditions  regular  and  uniform  in  all  parts  of  the  bed. 

In  the  callusing  bed  we  should  endeavor  to  hasten  and  perfect  the 
union  of  stock  and  scion  as  much  as  possible  while  delaying  the  start- 
ing of  the  buds  and  the  emission  of  the  roots.  The  latter  processes 
require  more  moisture  than  the  formation  of  healing  tissue,  therefore 
the  sand  should  be  kept  comparatively  dry.  Between  5  and  10  per  cent 
of  water  in  the  sand  is  sufficient.    The  purer  the  sand  the  less  water  is 


FIG.  15.    Showing  the  independence  of  root 
and  callus  formation. 

necessary.  There  should  be  a  little  more  moisture  present  than  in  the 
sand  used  for  keeping  the  cuttings  over  winter.  Too  much  moisture 
will  stimulate  the  emission  of  roots  and  starting  of  buds  without  aiding 
the  callus  formation,  as  is  well  shown  in  Fig.  14. 

The  formation  of  callus,  or  healing  tissue,  is  a  perfectly  distinct 
process  from  the  formation  of  roots.  The  independence  of  these  pro- 
cesses is  shown  in  Fig.  15,  where  an  abundant  growth  of  callus  is 
shown  on  the  cut  surface,  while  roots  are  shown  growing  only  above 
the  cut  surface. 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  117 

All  the  vital  processes  progress  more  rapidly  when  the  cuttings  are 
kept  warm.  To  delay  them,  therefore,  we  keep  the  sand  cool,  and  to 
hasten  them  we  make  it  warm.  In  the  beginning  of  the  season  and 
up  to  the  middle  of  March  we  keep  the  sand  cool.  This  is  done  by 
keeping  the  bed  covered  during  the  day  when  the  sun  is  shining,  and 
uncovering  occasionally  at  night  when  there  is  no  fear  of  rain.  If  the 
black-and-white  wagon-cover  is  used  the  white  side  should  be  placed 
outward  to  reflect  the  heat.  The  temperature  should  be  kept  about 
60°  F.  or  lower. 

About  the  middle  of  March  the  temperature  of  the  bed  should  be 
raised.  This  is  done  by  removing  the  cover  during  warm  days  and 
carefully  covering  at  night.  If  necessary  the  layer  of  moss  or  straw 
should  be  removed  on  sunny  days  and  then  replaced.    The  temperature 


68°  F.  77°  F.  86°  F. 

FIG.  16.    Callus  formed  at  various  temperatures  in  eight  days. 

of  the  sand  at  the  level  of  the  unions  should  be  about  75°  F.  during 
this  period.  If  the  temperature  rises  higher  than  this  there  will  be  a 
more  abundant  production  of  callus,  but  it  will  be  soft,  easily  injured, 
and  liable  to  decay. 

At  the  end  of  four  weeks  after  warming  the  bed,  the  union  should  be 
well  cemented.  The  callus  should  not  only  have  formed  copiously 
around  the  whole  circumference  of  the  wound,  but  it  should  have 
acquired  a  certain  amount  of  toughness  due  to  the  formation  of  fibrous 
tissue.  It  should  require  a  pull  of  several  pounds  to  break  the  callus 
and  separate  stock  and  scion.  When  the  callus  has  acquired  this  quality 
the  grafts  are  in  condition  to  be  planted  in  the  nursery,  and  may  be 
handled  without  danger.  If  taken  from  the  bed  while  the  callus  is 
still  soft,  many  unions  will  be  injured  and  the  grafts  will  fail,  or  unite 
only  on  one  side. 

If  left  as  long  as  this  in  the  callusing  bed  most  of  the  s?ion  buds 
will   have  started   and   formed   white   shoots.      These   shoots,   however, 

3— bul.  180. 


118 


UNIVERSITY    OP    CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT    STATION. 


should  not  be  more  than  V*  to  1  inch  long.  If  they  are  longer  the  bed 
has  been  kept  too  wet  or  too  warm.  Roots  will  also  have  started 
from  the  stock,  but  these  also  should  not  be  over  y2  inch  lone'.  The 
grafts  should  be  handled  as  carefully  as  is  practicable,  but  there  is 
no  objection  to  breaking  off  any  scion  shoots  or  stock  roots  which 
have  grown  too  long.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  save  them,  and  new 
ones  will  start  after  the  grafts  are  planted,  and  make  a  perfectly 
satisfactory  growth. 


FIG.  17.    Callused  whip  grafts.     (Callus  too  abundant.) 

Planting  in  the  Nursery.  —  The  grafts  are  planted  in  the  nursery  in 
rows  wide  enough  apart  to  allow  of  horse  cultivation,  and  wide 
enough  apart  in  the  rows  to  give  each  graft  room  to  develop.  The 
richer  the  soil  and  the  better  its  condition  the  more  grafts  may  be 
planted  to  the  acre.  The  more  space  each  graft  is  given  the  larger 
it  will  grow.  If  the  grafts  are  starved  either  by  poverty  of  the  soil 
or  being  planted  too  close  they  will  not  only  fail  to  grow  vigorously, 
but  the  unions  will  be  less  perfect  and  the  percentage  of  No.  1  grafts 
less. 

In  Europe  from  125,000  to  300,000  grafts  are  planted  to  the  acre. 
This  gives  each  plant  from  20  to  50  square  inches  of  surface.  In 
California  the  grafts  are  given  more  room.  The  rows  can  not  be 
placed  nearer  than  3  feet,  and  it  is  more  convenient  for  cultivation 
to  place  them  4  feet  apart.  In  most  soils  the  grafts  do  not  give  good 
results  if  placed  closer  in  the  rows  than  3  inches  apart.     In  a  rich. 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  119 


heavily  fertilized  soil  of  the  best  mechanical  texture  it  might  be 
possible  to  obtain  good  results  at  2  inches,  but  in  many  soils  it  is 
necessary  to  place  them  4  inches  to  get  good,  well-grown  plants. 

The  number  of  grafts  to  the  acre  and  the  space  given  to  each  is 
shown  in  the  following  table : 


Space  Between—                                 XT       ,         ,  _     .. 
*                                                           Number  of  Grafts 

net1   Ar>rp 

Number  of  Square  Inches 
per  Graft. 

Vines. 

Rows. 

2  inches 

2  inches 

3  inches 

3  inches 

4  incites 
4  inches 

36  inches                             87,120 
48  inches                             65,340 
36  inches                            58,080 
48  inches                             43,560 
36  inches                             43,560 
48  inches                             32,670 

72 
96 

108 
144 
144 
192 

The  grafts  may  be  planted  in  a  trench  made  with  a  spade.  It  is 
more  economical  and  better,  however,  if  the  soil  is  of  good  texture, 
properly  prepared  and  free  from  stones,  to  plant  them  with  a  dibble. 
Whichever  way  is  adopted  it  is  essential  that  the  greatest  regularity 
should  be  maintained  in  the  alignment  of  the  rows  and  in  the  depth 
of  the  planting. 

Before  planting  with  a  dibble  some  form  of  scraper  should  be  used 
which  will  make  a  shallow  ditch  from  12  to  18  inches  wide  and  about 
2  inches  deep,  perfectly  smooth  and  level  at  the  bottom.  A  line  is 
then  stretched  taut  about  1  inch  to  one  side  of  where  the  row  is  to 
be  and  2  inches  above  the  bottom  of  the  ditch.  The  grafts  are  then 
planted  with  the  dibble,  being  put  down  to  such  a  depth  that  the 
top  bud  comes  exactly  even  with  the  taut  line. 

Two  of  the  best  forms  of  nursery  dibbles  are  shown  in  Fig.  18.  The 
first,  a,  consists  of  a  piece  of  round  i/o-inch  iron,  18  inches  long, 
furnished  with  a  wooden  handle  at  one  end  and  a  curved  double 
point  with  a  V-shaped  cleft  at  the  other.  The  bottom  node  of  the 
stock  is  caught  in  the  cleft  and  the  graft  forced  down  to  the  desired 
depth.  Unless  the  ground  is  very  light  the  other  form  of  dibble  is 
preferable. 

The  other  dibble,  b,  consists  of  a  sword-shaped  piece  of  iron  18 
to  20  inches  long  and  2  inches  wide,  furnished  also  with  a  handle. 
The  usual  way  of  using  it  is  to  press  it  into  the  ground  to  the  desired 
depth,  open  the  hole  a  little  with  a  lateral  thrust,  withdraw  it  and 
insert  the  graft.  The  dibble  is  then  pushed  into  the  ground  again 
at  about  an  inch  to  one  side  of  the  graft  and  by  another  lateral 
thrust  the  earth  is  pressed  tightly  around  the  graft.  This  takes 
more  time  than  is  necessary  wTith  the  other  form  of  dibble,  and  unless 
done  carefully  there  is  danger  of  failing  to  make  the  soil  close  around 


120 


UNIVERSITY  OP   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT  STATION. 


the  base  of  the  stock,  which  is  thus  left  surrounded  by  an  air  space. 
Grafts  left  in  this  way  are  apt  to  become  moldy  and  fail  to  make 
good  roots. 

Both  these  objections  are  overcome  by  using  the  dibble  as  shown 
in  Fig.  19.  When  used  in  this  way  the  dibble  is  pushed  into  the 
ground  only  once  for  each  graft  and  there  is  no  possibility  of  the 


J 


\J 


(E 


a 


IA 


i /'i 


FIG.  18.     Dibbles  for  planting  grafts. 

graft  being  suspended  without  soil  in  contact  with  the  base.  Two 
men  work  together,  one  placing  the  grafts  and  the  other  manipulating 
the  dibble. 

Where  it  is  necessary  to  plant  in  compact  soil  or  in  soil  containing 
pebbles  a  dibble  can  not  be  used.  In  this  case  it  is  necessary  to  dig 
a  trench.  The  trench  should  be  dug  with  one  side  slightly  slanting. 
The  grafts  are  laid  against  this  side  and  well-pulverized  soil  shoveled 
in.    If  the  soil  is  at  all  stiff  or  clayey  a  couple  of  inches  of  sand  should 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS— GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION. 


121 


be  placed  on  the  side  of  the  bottom  of  the  trench  where  the  bottom 
of  the  stock  rests.  This  will  very  much  facilitate  the  rooting.  (See 
Fig.  20.) 

When  the  grafts  are  planted  they  should  be  completely  covered, 
and  very  carefully,  with  1  or  2  inches  of  soil.     This  will  leave  the 


FIG.  19.    Illustrating  Method  of  Planting  with  Dibble. 

D.    Position  of  dibble  when  pressing  the  soil  against  graft  7  and  opening  a  hole  for  graft  8. 
D       Position  of  dibble  when  preparing  to  press  soil  against  graft  8. 

S.    Loose  soil,  which  falls  to  bottom  of  hole  and  makes  it  possible  to  place  the  graft  at  exactly 
the  right  depth. 

nursery  in  ridges,  with  the  unions  of  the  grafts  in  the  center  of  the 
ridges  and  at  the  original  level  of  the  soil.  The  depressions  between 
the  ridges  will  be  about  2  inches  lower  than  the  unions.  This  is 
advisable,  as  it  makes  it  possible  to  irrigate  the  grafts  without  injur- 


FIG.  20.    Method  of  planting  grafts  in  trenches. 

ing  the  union  by  too  much  water.     The  ridges  should  be  wide.     If 
too  narrow  and  steep  they  dry  out  too  easily  and  the  unions  will  suffer. 

Cultivation.— By  the  end  of  April  all  the  grafts  should  be  planted 
and  a  good  irrigation  soon  after  this  is  advisable.  This  should  be 
done  in  such  a  way  that  the  ground  at  the  base  of  the  stock  will  be 
well  wetted.     This   will  start  the  formation  of  roots.     The   ridges 


122 


UNIVERSITY   OP    CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 


should  not  be  submerged,  but  they  should  be  wetted  sufficiently  to 
prevent  any  danger  of  the  drying  out  of  the  scions.  This  is  accom- 
plished by  lateral  seepage,  if  the  water  is  run  slowly  along  the  hollows 
between  the  ridges.  A  cultivator  should  be  run  between  the  rows 
as  soon  as  possible  after  the  irrigation,  but  the  ridges  should  not 
be  disturbed,  if  it  is  possible  to  avoid  it,  until  the  scions  start. 

If  the  soil  has  a  tendencv  to  form  a  crust,  however,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  break  this  crust  after  any  rain  that  may  occur  at  this 
time.  This  is  one  of  the  most  fruitful  causes  of  failure.  If  the  crust 
is  not  broken  the  buds  will  have  difficulty  in  pushing  their  way 
through  and  the  hard  soil  will  dry  down  rapidly  and  many  scions 
be  killed.     The  breaking  of  the  crust  must  be  done  with  great  care, 


FIG.  21.    Irrigating  the  nursery. 


or  the  scions  will%be  disturbed  and  make  poor  unions.  If -2  inches 
of  soil  have  been  placed  over  the  scions  a  careful  man  can  go  over 
the  ridges  with  a  short-toothed  rake  without  injuring  any  grafts. 
This  should  be  done  as  soon  as  the  soil  is  dry  enough  not  to  form 
clods  and  before  a  crust  has  formed.  It  is  better  in  this  way  to 
prevent  the  formation  of  a  crust  than  to  break  it  up  after  it  has 
formed.  This  requires  very  prompt  and  rapid  action,  for  in  some 
soils  a  crust  forms  in  less  than  twenty-four  hours  after  a  rain. 

Until  about  the  first  or  middle  of  July  there  is  nothing  to  do  to 
the  nursery  but  to  keep  the  weeds  down,  and  to  see  that  the  scions 
do  not  become  dry  before  they  are  supplied  with  water  by  the  new 
roots. 

The  shoots  from  the  scions  should  begin  to  appear  above  the  ground 
in  one  to  two  weeks  after  planting.    These  shoots  are  at  first  yellowish 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  123 

and  are  growing  at  the  expense  of  the  food  material  stored  up  in 
the  scion.     As  soon  as  roots  are  formed  the  shoots  become  a  deeper 


■i 


FIG.  22.    Effect  of  failure  to  remove'scion  roots. 


green  and  are  then  obtaining  food  from  the  roots  and  from  the  air. 
By  this  time  the  unions  are  well  formed,  and  the  scions  being  supplied 
with  water  by  their  own  roots  and  by  those  of  the  stock  are  in  less 


124  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

danger  of  drying  out.  The  sides  of  the  ridges  should  now  be  kept 
loose  by  hoeing,  and  the  ground  between  the  rows  pulverized  by 
frequent  cultivation. 

Removal  of  Scion  Roots.— As  soon  as  the  roots  on  the  stock  have 
started,  the  unions  should  be  examined  and  all  roots  which  have 
started  from  the  scions  should  be  removed.  This  will  be  about  the 
beginning  of  July  in  the  warmer  districts,  and  about  the  end  of  that 
month  in  the  cooler.  The  exact  time  is  determined  by  digging  up 
a  few  grafts  in  various  parts  of  the  nursery  and  examining  the  bases 
of  the  stocks.  If  all  have  formed  roots  it  is  time  to  take  off  the 
scion  roots. 

The  scion  roots  are  useful  to  the  graft  in  keeping  the  scion  alive 
and  perfecting  the  union  before  the  stock  roots  start,  and  they  should, 
therefore,  not  be  removed  too  soon.  The  roots  on  the  stock  start  later 
because  they  are  deeper  in  the  soil,  where  the  temperature  is  lower. 
If  the  scion  roots  are  allowed  to  grow  too  long,  however,  they  take 
the  nourishment  elaborated  by  the  scion  leaves  and  the  stock  roots 
are  starved.  (See  Fig.  22.)  In  this  way  we  may  get  a  large  growth  of 
leaves  on  the  scion  and  a  small  growth  of  roots  on  the  stock.  If  we 
remove  the  scion  roots  too  late,  therefore,  the  stock  roots  mav  be 

7  7  v 

insufficient  to  supply  the  large  growth  of  leaves  with  the  water  they 
need,  and  the  graft  will  die.  It  is  well,  whenever  particularly  large 
roots  are  cut  off  the  scion,  to  cut  back  the  shoot  and  to  remove  some 
of  the  leaves.  This  diminishes  evaporation  and  delays  the  growth  of 
the  scion  until  the  stock  has  developed  sufficient  roots  to  supply  it 
with  the  necessary  water. 

Removal  of  Raffia  and  Suckers. — At  the  same  time  that  the  scion 
roots  are  removed,  the  tying  material,  raffia  or  string,  should  be  cut 
on  all  the  grafts  where  it  has  not  rotted.  On  the  late  grafts  planted 
directly  in  the  nursery  without  previous  callusing  the  raffia  will  not 
require  cutting  if  it  has  been  used  without  bluestoning.  The  raffia 
or  other  tying  material  should  be  entirely  removed  or  the  grafts  will 
be  strangled.     (See  Fig.  23,  b.) 

If  the  stocks  have  been  properly  disbudded  before  grafting  they 
will  produce  very  few  suckers.  Those  which  do  grow  should  be 
removed  as  soon  as  they  show  above  the  ground,  and  any  that  are 
found  when  the  scion  roots  are  attended  to  should  be  carefully  cut 
off.  To  perform  these  various  operations  it  is  necessary  to  dig  down 
beside  the  grafts  to  below  the  union.  After  they  are  finished  the 
soil  should  be  replaced,  but  the  ridges  are  not  made  quite  so  high 
as  before.  The  unions  should  be  covered  up  and  any  shoots  which 
are  very  white  should  be  protected  by  drawing  the  soil  up  around 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.         125 

them.  This  lowering  of  the  ridges  is  useful  in  gradually  hardening 
the  unions.  The  soil  is  allowed  to  become  dry  around  the  unions 
and  they  are  thus  prepared  for  the  complete  removal  of  the  soil 
around  the  unions  which  should  take  place  later  at  a  subsequent  hoeing. 

Digging  the  Grafts.— The  grafts  may  be  removed  from  the  nursery 
at  any  time  after  the  leaves  have,  turned  yellow  and  before  they  are 
needed  for  planting  in  the  spring.  It  is  best,  however,  to  wait  until 
the  leaves  have  fallen  and  the  vines  are  perfectly  dormant.     If  dug 


FIG.  23.    Effect  of  failure  to  remove  raffia. 

at  this  time  and  kept  in  a  cool  place  the  buds  will  not  start  as  soon 
as  if  they  are  left  in  the  ground. 

The  grafts  should  be  dug  carefully  in  order  not  to  injure  the  top, 
body,  or  union.  Cutting  the  roots  does  no  harm,  but  tearing  them 
off  should  be  avoided.  They  can  be  removed  satisfactorily  with  a 
nursery  plant-digger. 


Sorting  the  Grafts. — As  soon  as  the  grafts  are  out  of  the  ground  they 
should  be  carefully  sorted  into  three  lots  in  accordance  with  their 
root  and  top  growth,  and  especially  with  regard  to  the  strength  and 
completeness  of  the  union.  These  lots  are  called  No.  1  grafts,  No.  2 
grafts,  and  culls.  The  No.  1  grafts  are  those  suitable  for  planting 
in  the  vineyard;  the  No.  2  grafts  may  be  replaced  in  the  nursery,  and 
the  culls  are  rejected  altogether. 


126  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

A  No.  1  graft  should  have  a  top  growth  of  well-ripened  wood  at 
least  10  inches  long  and  well-developed  roots  at  the  bottom  of  the 
stock.  It  should  have  no  large  scion  roots  or  scars  where  they  have 
been  removed.  It  should  not  show  injuries  due  to  digging,  and  there 
should  not  be  a  great  difference  of  diameter  between  the  stock  and 
scion.  The  most  important  point  is  the  condition  of  the  union.  The 
stock  and  scion  should  be  united  firmly  on  both  sides  and  the  union 
should  be  the  strongest  part  of  the  vine.  A  No.  1  graft  if  bent 
sufficiently  will  break  either  above  or  below,  but  not  at  the  union. 
(See  Fig.  24.) 

The  allowable  difference  in  size  between  stock  and  scion  will  differ 
according  to  the  varieties  grafted.  A  Rupestris  St.  George  or 
Mourvedre  X  Rupestris  1202  stock  should  be  as  large  as  the  scion; 
a  Riparia  X  Rupestris  3309  or  3306  may  be  from  one  fifth  to  one 
fourth  smaller,  while  a  Riparia  gloire  may  be  from  one  fourth  to 
one  third  smaller. 

The  lump  or  swelling  which  in  nearly  all  cases  occurs  just  above 
the  union  should  not  be  too  pronounced.  When  large  it  is  a  sign  of 
lack  of  affinity  between  stock  and  scion  or  of  an  imperfect  union. 
(See  Fig.  23,  a,  c.) 

The  No.  2  grafts  are  those  which  have  some  of  the  defects  mentioned 
above,  but  which  may  develop  into  good  vines.  As  there  is  doubt 
of  this,  however,  they  should  not  be  planted  directly  in  the  vineyard, 
but  placed  in  nursery  for  another  season.  The  following  year  a 
large  proportion  of  them  will  have  overcome  their  defects  and 
developed  into  good  two-year-old  vines.  Grafts  which  have  united 
well  on  one  side  or  which  have  complete  unions  but  small  growth 
may  be  saved  in  this  way,  though  it  would  probably  be  better  for 
the  vineyard  to  plant  nothing  but  No.  1  one-year-old  grafts. 

Certain  defects  can  not  be  overcome.  Grafts  which  have  made  a 
heavy  top  growth  by  means  of  scion  roots  and  of  which  the  stock  is 
small  and  starved  should  be  thrown  away.  (See  Fig.  22.)  If  the 
union  is  imperfect  on  both  sides,  or  if  the  enlargement  above  the  union 
is  excessive,  there  is  no  hope  of  making  good  vines  of  them.  (See 
Fig.  23,  a,c.) 

Pruning. — It  is  best  not  to  prune  the  grafts  until  they  are  planted 
or  afterwards.  If  the  tops  have  made  a  very  large  growth  with  large 
laterals  they  may  be  pruned  partially  in  order  to  facilitate  making 
up  into  bundles  and  shipping.  All  shoots  may  be  cut  off  except  the 
largest,  which  should  be  left  full  length  if  not  more  than  18  inches 
long.  When  the  grafts  are  tied  up  in  bundles  the  roots  may  be 
shortened  to  6  inches.  This  is  best  done  by  placing  the  bundles  on 
a  wooden  block  and  cutting  the  roots  with  a  sharp  broadax. 


i,  *:&>.<:  ■* 


FIG.  24.    No.  1  rooted  bench  grafts. 


128  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

Conservation  and  Shipping.— Rooted  vines  require  much  more  care 
than  cuttings,  as  they  are  more  easily  damaged.  They  are  especially 
liable  to  injury  by  drying-out.  Grafts  are  even  more  sensitive.  They 
should  be  kept  in  a  cool,  moist  place  until  they  are  shipped  or  planted. 
A  good  way  is  to  heel  them  in  under  an  open  shed  or  on  the  north 
side  of  a  building  in  sand  or  loam  where  there  is  no  danger  of  their 
getting  too  wet.  If  it  is  necessary  to  heel  them  in  out  in  the  open 
field  they  should  be  protected  from  the  sun  by  placing  over  them  a 
bed  of  straw  at  least  2  feet  thick. 

Nursery  Grafting. — Certain  varieties  of  stocks,  such  as  Lenoir  and 
some  of  the  Berlandieri  and  iEstivalis  hybrids  which  root  with 
difficulty,  do  not  give  good  results  with  cutting  grafting  and  must  be 
rooted  first,  as  already  described  on  page  112.  If  they  have  made  a 
good  stand  in  the  nursery  and  there  are  not  too  many  vacant  spaces, 
they  may  be  grafted  without  removal.  This  is  known  as  "nursery 
grafting."  Cuttings  under  14  inch  in  diameter  of  other  varieties 
may  also  be  rooted  in  the  nursery  and  grafted  the  next  year  without 
removal. 

Either  the  tongue  graft  or  the  wire  graft  may  be  used.  If  the 
vines  have  made  a  large  growth  and  are  over  V2  inch  in  diameter  it  is 
better  to  use  one  of  the  methods  described  on  page  137.     (See  Fig.  26.) 

The  tongue  graft  is  difficult  to  make  in  the  nursery  and  the  tying* 
is  particularly  troublesome.  Good  results  can  be  obtained  often  by 
omitting  the  tying,  but  the  scions  send  out  large  numbers  of  roots. 
The  wire  method  is  particularly  well  suited  to  nursery  grafting,  is 
very  easily  performed,  and  gives  excellent  results.  Over  90  per  cent 
of  first-class  unions  should  be  obtained. 

The  grafting  should  be  done  as  near  the  surface  of  the  ground  as 
possible.  The  soil  is  first  hoed  away  and  carefully  cleaned  off  the 
vines,  leaving  them  in  a  little  trench  3  or  4  inches  deep.  They  are 
then  cut  off  with  pruning  shears  just  below  the  bud  of  the  original 
cutting  which  is  nearest  to  the  surface.  The  grafting  is  then  done 
in  the  same  way  as  already  described  for  cutting  grafts.  The  same 
care  in  cultivation,  removal  of  suckers,  scion  roots,  and  tying  material 
is  necessary. 

Grafts  made  in  this  way  are  very  large  and  vigorous  and  will  give 
good  results  if  handled  properly  in  the  vineyard.  There  are  the  same 
objections  to  them  as  to  any  very  large  plants,  however.  They  are 
more  liable  to  injury  than  smaller  plants  in  removal  from  the  nursery, 
require  more  care  in  planting,  and  are  more  liable  to  suffer  from 
the  difference  of  conditions  between  the  nursery  and  the  vineyard. 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  129 

II.     THE  VINEYARD. 

Preparation  of  the  Land.— Whatever  the  method  of  grafting  adopted, 
the  land  where  the  vineyard  is  to  be  planted  should  receive  the  same 
careful  preparation.  Profitable  vineyards  have  been  established  in 
some  soils  which  have  received  no  more  preparation  than  is  needed 
for  a  crop  of  wheat.  Such  cases  are,  however,  exceptional,  and  even 
in  these  cases  better  and  quicker  results  would  have  been  obtained 
if  the  ground  had  been  properly  prepared  before  planting.  The  need 
of  thorough  preparation  of  the  soil  is  more  urgent  when  we  plant 
resistant  vines  than  when  we  plant  vinifera  varieties  on  their  own 
roots.  This  is  owing  both  to  the  greater  sensitiveness  of  resistant 
roots  to  unfavorable  conditions  and  to  the  greater  cost  of  starting  a 
resistant  vineyard,  which  makes  the  necessity  of  quick  returns  more 
pressing. 

In  South  Africa  it  is  usual  to  obtain  a  crop  eighteen  months  after 
planting  bench  grafts.  This  crop  may  amount  to  five  tons  per  acre, 
and  even  more.  This  precocity  is  due  in  great  part  to  the  fact  that 
before  planting,  the  soil  of  the  vineyard  is  hand-trenched  to  a  depth 
of  30  inches  or  more.  Hand-trenching  is,  of  course,  out  of  the  question 
in  California,  where  labor  is  expensive.  We  can,  however,  approxi- 
mate these  results  by  deep  plowing  and  subsoiling.  Wherever  resist- 
ant vines  are  planted,  the  soil  should  be  plowed  2  or  3  inches  deeper 
than  the  depth  to  which  the  bottom  of  the  cutting  or  graft  will  reach 
when  planted,  and  subsoiled  several  inches  below  this.  A  plow  which 
will  turn  the  soil  over  to  a  depth  of  12  inches,  followed  by  a  subsoiler 
stirring  the  soil  6  inches  deeper,  will  give  results  during  the  first 
three  years  of  the  life  of  the  vineyard  that  will  more  than  repay  the 
cost  in  crop  alone,  and  the  perfect  stand  and  strong  healthy  vines 
will  insure  good  crops  in  later  years.  It  is  doubtful  whether  a  vine 
which  is  starved  and  dwarfed  during  the  first  three  or  four  years 
of  its  life  ever  gives  the  best  results  in  crop. 

If  the  land  is  plowed  in  the  way  described  the  roots  of  the  graft 
when  planted  will  be  in  contact  with  top  soil,  which  is  the  best  for 
root  growth,  and  the  graft  should  make  a  growth  of  several  canes 
3  or  4  feet  long  and  a  strong  root  system  the  first  year. 

Fertilization. — As  a  rule,  no  general  fertilization  of  the  soil  is  needed 
the  first  year,  the  deep  plowing  being  sufficient  to  insure  a  strong 
growth.  When  replanting  the  site  of  an  old  vineyard  or  planting 
vines  on  land  which  has  been  occupied  by  an  orchard,  some  fertilizer 
to  renew  the  humus  of  the  soil  is  advisable.  A  crop  of  rye  or  peas 
plowed-in  the  year  previous  to  planting  is  useful  for  this  purpose. 
A  heavy  manuring  with  from  15  to   20  tons   of  well-rotted  stable 


130  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

manure  is  also  excellent,  when  it  can  be  procured.  The  manure  should 
be  spread  on  the  surface  and  plowed  in.  If  the  manure  is  not  well 
rotted,  however,  it  may  do  more  harm  than  good,  unless  applied  at 
least  twelve  months  before  the  planting.  The  vines  are  apt  to  dry  out 
or  become  moldy  at  the  base  if  they  are  in  contact  with  very  strawy 
manure. 

In  every  case,  it  is  advisable  to  place  a  little  nitrogenous  fertilizer 
below  each  vine  when  it  is  planted.  For  this  purpose  ground  or 
steamed  bones,  tankage,  or  old  stable  manure  may  be  used  with 
advantage.  Two  or  three  ounces  of  the  first  two  or  half  a  shovel  of 
the  last  well  dug  in  and  mixed  with  the  soil  at  the  bottom  of  each 
planting  hole  is  sufficient.  A  general  fertilization  of  the  land  is 
usually  best  postponed  until  the  second  year. 

Intercalary  Crops. — As  a  rule  it  is  better  not  to  try  to  raise  any 
crop  between  the  vines  unless  there  is  an  abundance  of  water.  In 
most  parts  of  California  the  young  vines  need  all  the  moisture  avail- 
able in  the  soil  during  summer  and,  unless  summer  irrigation  can  be 
given,  the  soil  between  the  vines  should  be  kept  clear  of  crops  and 
weeds.  With  irrigation  it  is  possible  to  raise  a  crop  of  corn  or  other 
hoed  crops  without  injury  to  the  vines  during  the  first  year,  providing 
nothing  is  grown  nearer  than  3  feet  from  the  vines.  After  the  first 
year  the  land  should  be  given  exclusively  to  the  vines. 

Planting. — If  the  ground  has  been  plowed  deeply,  as  already 
explained,  and  no  fertilizer  is  to  be  used,  the  grafts  may  be  planted 
with  a  dibble.  This  method  has  several  advantages  and  can  be  used 
in  all  soils  which  do  not  contain  large  stones  or  coarse  gravel.  It  is 
not  recommended,  however,  except  for  sandy  and  sandy-loam  soils. 
It  is  rapid  and  facilitates  the  perfect  alignment  of  the  vines,  as  well 
as  makes  it  much  easier  to  attain  the  very  important  object  of  placing 
the  unions  at  exactly  the  right  height  above  the  surface  of  the  ground. 
For  planting  in  this  way  the  roots  must  be  pruned  very  short.  The 
stronger  roots  must  be  pruned  down  to  y±  inch,  and  the  smaller 
removed  altogether.  There  is  probably  some  loss  of  strength  to  the 
vines  by  this  close  root  pruning,  but  it  is  not  very  serious.  The  young 
rootlets  start  from  the  cut  end  of  the  root  wherever  it  is  cut,  and  the 
main  advantage  of  a  rooted  vine  over  a  cutting  is  the  rapidity  with 
which  the  rootlets  start  and  grow.  However  long  we  leave  the  roots 
they  are  of  no  use  to  the  vine  until  they  have  developed  new  rootlets. 
If  we  leave  the  roots  longer  when  planting  with  a  dibble  they  will  be 
turned  up  when  planted,  which  will  result  in  crooked  and  improperly 
placed  roots. 

Fig.  18c  shows  a  convenient  form  of  dibble.    It  consists  of  a  sword- 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION. 


131 


shaped  piece  of  iron  about  15  inches  long,  a  handle  furnished  with  a 
cross-piece,  and  a  foot-rest.  In  use,  it  is  pressed  into  the  ground  by 
placing  the  foot  on  the  foot-rest  and  then  by  a  backward  and  forward 
movement  of  the  handle  the  hole  is  opened  in  the  soil  and  the  dibble 
removed.  This  hole  is  made  from  8  to  10  inches  deep,  according  to 
the  length  of  the  graft.  The  graft  is  then  inserted  to  the  right  depth 
and  the  dibble  pressed  into  the  ground  again  about  3  or  4  inches  from 
the  graft  and  a  few  inches  deeper  than  the  first  time.  Then  by  a 
vigorous  thrust  of  the  handle  the  blade  of  the  dibble  is  caused  to 
press  the  soil  tightly  around  the  graft.     An  ordinary  garden  spade 


FIG.  25.    Illustrating  method  of  planting  grafts.     (Redrawn  after  Richter.) 

may  be  used  for  the  same  purpose.     It  is  particularly  necessary  that 
the  soil  should  be  in  intimate  contact  with  the  bottom  of  the  graft. 

Whatever  the  length  of  the  graft,  the  union  should  be  1  or  2  inches, 
above  the  general  level  of  the  ground.  On  steep  hillsides  the  union 
should  be  placed  higher  — 4  inches  or  more  above  the  surface.  Unless 
this  is  done  the  union  will  soon  be  covered  by  the  soil  thrown  down 
by  the  sidehill  plows,  and  it  will  be  difficult  or  impossible  to  prevent 
the  growth  of  scion  roots.  Grafted  vines  for  use  on  hillsides  should 
be  from  2  to  4  inches  longer  than  for  level  soils.  The  stocks  should 
not  be  less  than  12  inches  long.  A  14-  or  15-inch  stock  and  a  one-bud 
scion  is  the  best  for  this  purpose.  As  soon  as  possible  after  planting, 
not  later  than  the  next  day,  the  soil  should  be  hoed  up  around  the 
graft,  leaving  a  broad  hill  reaching  at  least  2  or  3  inches  above  the 
union. 


132  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

If  the  soil  is  stony  or  imperfectly  prepared,  or  if  we  desire  to  apply 
fertilizers,  planting  with  a  dibble  is  impossible.  In  this  case  we  must 
dig  a  hole  for  each  vine.  This  hole  need  not  be  any  wider  than  the 
spade,  but  should  be  at  least  4  inches  deeper  than  the  bottom  of  the 
graft. 

The  method  of  planting  is  shown  in  Fig.  25.  As  soon  as  the  hole  is 
dug,  3  or  4  inches  of  top  soil,  mixed  with  fertilizer  if  it  is  used,  is  placed 
at  the  bottom.  The  vine  is  then  put  in  a  slanting  position  so  that  its 
base  is  near  the  middle  of  the  hole  and  its  top  against  the  marker. 
More  top  soil  is  then  thrown  in  until  the  hole  is  about  half  full.  The 
soil  is  then  pressed  with  the  foot  firmly  around  the  roots  and  bottom 
half  of  the  stock.  The  hole  is  then  filled  with  loose  soil  and  the  graft 
well  hilled  up  several  inches  above  the  union.  The  hill  should  be  very 
broad,  in  order  to  prevent  drying  out. 

With  this  method  of  planting  great  care  is  necessary  to  avoid  getting 
any  of  the  unions  too  deep.  If  the  unions  are  placed  below  the  surface 
of  the  soil  the  scion  will  send  out  roots.  If  these  roots  are  not  removed 
they  will  grow  large  and  finally  take  all  the  nourishment  coming  from 
the  leaves.  This  will  result  in  the  starvation  and  death  of  the  resistant 
root,  and  in  a  few  years  the  vine  has  nothing  but  vinifera  roots  and  is 
as  susceptible  to  injury  from  phylloxera  as  if  it  had  never  been  grafted. 
If  the  scion  roots  are  removed  twice  a  year  for  the  first  two  years 
and  once  a  year  until  the  vines  are  seven  or  eight  years  old  this 
result  may  be  avoided,  and  if  the  work  is  done  promptly  and  thoroughly 
few  scion  roots  will  be  formed  after  this.  To  do  this  properly,  how- 
ever, requires  a  great  deal  of  careful,  conscientious  work,  which  it  is 
difficult  to  have  done  on  a  large  scale,  and  which  may  be  avoided  by 
planting  the  grafts  at  the  right  depth. 

If  the  unions  are  placed  too  high  the  roots  are  brought  too  near  the 
surface  and  they  may  dry  out  before  they  have  time  to  grow  down  into 
the  permanently  moist  soil.  As  the  unions  should  be  well  covered 
with  soil  to  protect  them  from  the  sun  during  the  first  summer,  it  is 
necessary  to  make  very  large  mounds  if  the  unions  are  placed  very 
high. 

In  general  it  is  found  that  the  most  convenient  position  for  the  union 
is  about  2  inches  above  the  surface  of  the  ground.  This  will  bring  the 
bottom  of  the  graft  8  inches  below  the  surface  with  an  ordinary  10-inch 
stock.  This  is  sufficiently  deep  for  all  except  very  dry  and  open  soils, 
if  the  grafts  are  well  hilled  up  after  planting. 

In  planting  with  a  dibble  the  planter  can  estimate  the  height  of  the 
union  with  sufficient  exactness  by  eye,  but  when  planting  in  a  hole, 
especially  if  the  surface  of  the  ground  is  rough  or  uneven,  some  kind 
of  guide  is  necessary.  For  this  purpose  a  stick  3  feet  long  and  1  inch 
in  diameter  may  be  used.    This  stick  is  laid  across  the  hole,  and  shows 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.         133 

the  true  level  of  the  ground  and  serves  as  a  guide  to  show  the  planter 
where  to  place  the  union.  In  planting  with  a  number  of  men  where 
a  marked  rope  or  wire  is  used  to  show  the  position  of  each  vine  while 
planting,  this  rope  or  wire  may  be  used  as  the  guide  to  show  the  height 
of  the  union,  provided  one  man  is  employed  in  watching  the  rope  to 
see  that  it  remains  stretched  at  exactly  the  right  height  above  the 
surface. 

.  Pruning.— The  pruning  of  the  roots  before  planting  has  already  been 
discussed.  The  top  is  usually  pruned  by  removing  all  the  shoots  except 
the  strongest  and  cutting  that  back  to  two  good  buds.  The  superfluous 
.shoots  should  be  cut  off  clean  close  enough  to  the  base  to  remove  the 
base  bud.  The  shoot  which  is  left  should  be  cut  through  the  bud  above 
the  top  one  which  is  left.    ' 

In  France  it  is  considered  better  to  postpone  the  cutting  back  of 
the  main  shoot  until  the  buds  have  started  after  planting,  as  indicated 
in  Fig.  25.  This  prevents  to  some  extent  the  early  starting  of  the 
bottom  buds  and  the  danger  of  their  injury  by  spring  frosts.  It  also 
protects  the  union  from  injury  during  the  period  which  elapses  between 
the  planting  and  the  commencement  of  growth. 

Staking.  —  To  obtain  the  best  results,  a  vineyard  of  bench  grafts 
should  be  staked  the  year  it  is  planted.  Bench  grafts  grow  more  rapidly 
than  ungrafted  vines.  This  is  especially  true  when  deep  preparation  of 
the  soil  has  been  practised.  Moreover,  with  most  varieties  the  scion  will 
be  a  little  larger  than  the  stock,  which  makes  the  vine  top  heavy  and 
more  likely  to  bend  over  and  lie  flat  on  the  ground.  To  prevent  this 
and  to  have  a  well-shaped  vine  from  the  beginning,  the  shoots  growing 
during  the  first  season  should  be  tied  up  to  a  stake.  If  this  is  done, 
it  will  be  possible  to  give  each  vine  a  straight,  smooth  stem  and  sym- 
metrical head  at  the  second  pruning.  It  is  only  in  this  way  that  the 
full  benefit  can  be  obtained  of  the  vigorous  growth  which  properly 
planted  grafts  make  during  the  first  two  years.  If  the  vines  are  allowed 
to  lie  on  the  ground  it  will  take  three  or  four  years  to  give  them  the 
proper  shape,  and  much  crop  is  lost  by  the  heavy  pruning  necessary 
for  this  purpose. 

The  size  of  stake  will  depend  on  the  style  of  pruning  that  is  to  be 
adopted  and  the  height  at  which  the  vines  are  to  be  headed.  For 
ordinary  short-pruned  vines  a  stake  3  feet  long  and  1  or  IVi  inches  in 
diameter  is  quite  sufficient.  Such  a  stake  can  be  driven  2  feet  into 
the  ground  and  will  support  the  vine  perfectly  for  five  or  six  years  if 
the  head  is  made  at  the  usual  height  of  about  10  inches,  or  lower.  After 
this,  the  vine  should  be  stout  enough  to  stand  without  a  stake.  If  the 
4— bul.  180. 


134  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

vines  are  to  be  pruned  long  or  given  a  high  head  a  4-  to  6-foot  stake 
will  be  needed  and  may  be  put  in  the  first  year.  As  all  vines  should  be 
pruned  short  for  the  first  three  year's,  however,  it  is  as  well  to  use  small 
stakes  at  first  and  to  replace  them  with  longer  and  heavier  stakes  when 
long  pruning  is  commenced.  If  the  vines  are  to  be  headed  high,  15  to 
18  inches,  a  4-foot  stake  will  be  necessary,  and  this  will  have  to  be 
a  little  heavier,  1^4  to  l1^  inches  in  diameter. 

Suckering  and  Hooting. — If  No.  1  bench  grafts  from  which  the  stock 
buds  were  properly  removed  before  grafting  are  used,  and  if  they  are 
planted  in  the  way  described,  there  will  be  very  few  suckers  from  the 
stock,  or  roots  from  the  scion,  produced.  Any  which  do  grow,  however, 
must  be  very  carefully  and  completely  removed.  The  more  thoroughly 
this  is  done  during  the  first  year  the  less  trouble  there  will  be  later,  and 
after  the  third  year  there  should  be  hardly  any  suckers  and  no  scion 
roots  produced  at  all.  • 

As  the  unions  are  kept  covered  during  the  first  year  a  few  scion 
roots  will  be  produced,  especially  in  rich  and  moist  soil.  These  should 
be  cut  off  once  during  the  season  about  midsummer,  at  about  the  time 
of  the  second  hoeing.  Any  which  develop  after  that  may  be  removed 
at  the  winter  pruning.  No  scion  roots  will  be  formed  in  subsequent 
years  if  the  unions  are  above  the  surface  and  kept  uncovered,  as  they 
should  be. 

Some  stocks  such  as  Rupestris,  and  especially  Rupestris  St.  George, 
are  very  prone  to  throw  out  suckers,  but  careful  work  during  the  first 
three  years  will  overcome  this  tendency.  To  do  this  the  suckers  should 
never  be  allowed  to  mature.  Three  or  four  times  during  the  first  year 
the  vineyard  should  be  gone  over  carefully  and  every  sucker  cut  off 
close  down  to  the  stock  at  the  place  where  it  starts. 

If  a  piece  of  the  base  of  the  sucker  is  left,  especially  if  the  sucker  has 
matured,  a  lump  will  form  on  the  stock,  from  which  there  will  be  an 
inveterate  tendency  for  suckers  to  form.  A  little  extra  work  during 
the  first  year  will  prevent  the  need  of  a  great  deal  of  work  in  subsequent 
years.  For  the  first  three  or  four  years  the  collar  of  the  vine  should  be 
cleaned  off  down  4  or  5  inches  below  the  surface  every  winter  or  spring 
by  plowing  and  hoeing  away  from  the  vine.  This  will  expose  any 
suckers  which  have  been  overlooked  during  the  summer.  All  such 
suckers  should  be  cut  out  very  close,  care  being  taken  to  remove  the 
slight  enlargement  at  the  base  of  each  from  which  new  suckers  would 
start  in  the  following  summer. 

Cultivation.  -The  cultivation  of  a  grafted  vineyard  does  not  differ 
in  any  way  from  that  of  an  ordinary  vineyard  of  vinifera  varieties. 
Deep  plowing  and  thorough  summer  cultivation  are  equally  necessary 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS— GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  135 

and,  owing  to  the  tendency  of  many  grafted  vines  to  heavy  hearing, 
fertilization  is  more  likely  to  be  needed.  As  a  rule,  the  same  methods 
of  pruning  are  applicable.  With  very  vigorous  stocks,  such  as  Rupestris 
St.  George,  it  may  be  necessary  to  prune  some  varieties  longer  to 
counteract  a  tendency  to  "go  to  wood/  With  most  stocks,  on  the 
other  hand,  the  fertility  of  the  vines  is  increased  and  shorter  priming 
is  advisable.  In  any  case  the  amount  of  pruning  can  be  determined 
by  the  strength  of  the  vine  itself  as  with  ungrafted  vines. 

III.     FIELD  GRAFTING. 

It  is  possible  to  start  a  resistant  vineyard  by  planting  the  stocks 
directly  in  the  field  and  grafting  them  there  after  they  are  rooted 
instead  of  planting  bench  grafts.  This  was  formerly  the  commonest 
method  and  is  still  largely  practised  in  some  districts.  It  is,  however, 
in  all  cases  less  satisfactory  and  more  expensive  than  the  methods 
already  described.  In  some  cases— on  steep  hillsides,  in  very  stony  or 
stiff  soil  — it  is  almost  impossible  to  make  a  satisfactory  vineyard  by 
field  grafting.  Good  results  are  sometimes  obtained  by  this  method 
in  fairly  level,  loose  soils,  but  the  results  are  so  much  at  the  mercy 
of  the  weather  that  even  with  the  best  work  it  is  only  by  chance  that 
good  paying  vineyards  are  established  in  this  way.  Even  when,  by  an 
extraordinary  combination  of  favorable  conditions,  a  field-grafted 
vineyard  is  successfully  established  the  cost  is  always  more  than  the 
cost  of  a  similar  vineyard  started  with  bench  grafts. 
•  As  field  grafting  is  still  practised  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  as 
many  vineyards  of  resistant  stocks  have  been  planted,  it  seems  necessary 
to  describe  the  method. 

Preparation  of  the  Soil.  —  Thorough  plowing  and  subsoiling  are  even 
more  necessary  when  planting  ungrafted  resistants  than  when  planting 
bench  grafts.  This  is  because  good  results  can  be  obtained  only  if  the 
resistants  are  grafted  young,  and  this  makes  it  essential  to  obtain  a  good 
growth  the  first  year.  If  the  stock  remains  in  the  ground  for  two,  three, 
or  more  years  before  grafting,  it  becomes  hard  and  refractory  to  graft- 
ing and  good  unions  can  not  be  obtained.  The  stocks  should  make 
sufficient  growth  the  first  year  to  allow  of  their  being  grafted  the  spring 
following  the  planting. 

Catlings  or  Roots.  —  It  is  better,  whenever  possible,  to  plant  good 
cuttings  than  roots.  This  is  because  when  they  are  grafted  the  follow- 
ing year  the  wood  where  the  union  is  made  is  a  year  younger  than  in 
the  case  of  roots  and  the  unions  are  correspondingly  more  perfect.  This 
is    especially   true    with    Rupestris    and    Riparia    stocks,    which    make 


136  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

unreliable  unions  when  old.  With  vinifera  hybrids,  such  as  Aramon 
X  Rupestris  No.  2  and  Mourvedre  X  Rupestris  1202,  the  age  of  the 
stock  is  not  so  important. 

The  cuttings  should  be  very  carefully  selected  and  only  firm,  healthy, 
well-ripened  wood  used.  They  should  be  sufficiently  long  to  allow  4 
inches  of  the  top  to  be  left  above  the  surface  of  the  ground.  This  is 
very  necessary  in  order  to  make  it  possible  to  graft  above  the  surface, 
for  the  graft  must  be  made  on  the  part  of  the  vine  corresponding  to 
the  original  cutting.  To  graft  in  the  new  wood  which  has  grown  after 
planting  makes  it  necessary  to  wait  two  or  three  years,  as  the  first  year 's 
growth  is  usually  too  thin.  Vines  grafted  in  this  way,  moreover,  give 
very  much  more  trouble  by  their  inveterate  habit  of  throwing  out 
suckers.  For  these  reasons  small,  thin  cuttings  or  the  tips  of  canes 
should  not  be  planted  in  the  field.  Such  cuttings,  if  well  ripened,  may 
be  planted  in  the  nursery,  where  they  will  make  a  good  growth  the  first 
year,  and  where  they  may  be  nursery  grafted. 

The  cuttings  of  some  resistant  stocks,  such  as  Aramon  X  Rupestris 
No.  2,  root  with  difficulty,  and  if  planted  directly  in  the  field  would 
require  much  replanting.  With  these  varieties  it  is  better  to  plant 
roots.  With  all  varieties  it  is  better  to  plant  roots  in  soils  where  cuttings 
strike  with  difficulty.  An  incomplete  stand  the  first  year  is  difficult  to 
overcome,  and  increases  the  expense  by  spreading  the  work  of  planting, 
grafting,  and  regrafting  over  several  years.  At  every  stage  of  the 
process  of  starting  a  vineyard  by  field  grafting  some  vines  may  be  lost 
or  spoiled,  and  it  is  only  by  the  most  thorough  and  careful  work  that 
it  is  possible  to  avoid  the  ragged,  uneven  collection  of  crippled  mon- 
strosities that  too  often  passes  for  a  resistant  vineyard. 

Age  for  Grafting. — Whenever  possible  the  vines  should  be  grafted 
the  year  after  planting.  Some  stocks  may  make  too  small  a  growth  of 
top  and  root  to  make  a  strong  graft  the  first  year,  and  it  will  be  necessary 
to  leave  such  stocks  a  year  longer.  Any  stock  which  is  Va  incn  thick 
and  has  made  a  fair  top  growth  should  be  grafted.  It  is  a  great  mistake 
to  wait  two  or  three  years  until  the  vines  are  %  or  1  inch  thick,  as  is 
done  by  many  grafters. 

Methods  of  Grafting.— Wherever  possible  the  vines  should  be  grafted 
at  or  above  the  surface  of  the  ground.  In  many  cases,  however,  this 
will  be  impossible.  Some  cuttings  will  have  failed  to  start  the  top  buds 
and  it  will  be  necessary  to  go  below  the  surface  to  find  a  smooth,  suitable 
part  of  the  stock  where  grafting  is  possible. 

The  kind  of  graft  to  use  will  depend  on  the  size  of  the  stock.  For 
stocks  up  to  %  inch  in  diameter  the  methods  of  tongue  and  wire  grafting 
already  described  are  the  best.     For  larger  vines  up  to  %   inch  a 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  137 

modification  of  the  ordinary  tongue  graft  is  the   best.     Reference  to 
Fig.  26,  B,  BB,  will  show  how  it  is  modified.    If  the  tongue  graft  were 


>"  (i 


33 

FIG.  26.     Methods  of  field  grafting. 

A.    Whip  graft  for  stocks  J  to  §  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 

B,  BB.    Whip  graft  for  stocks  §  to  f  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 

C,  CC.    Whip  graft  for  stocks  over  J  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 

made  in  the  usual  way  with  stocks  of  this  size  it  would  be  necessary 
to  use  excessively  large  scions,  which  is  undesirable,  or  to  have  the  barks 
unite  only  on  one  side.     By  cutting  the  bevel  of  the  stock  only  part 


138  UNIVERSITY    OP1    CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT    STATION. 

way  through  the  vines,  as  shown  in  Fig.  26,  B,  it  is  possible  to  make  a 
smaller  scion  unite  on  both  sides.  For  still  larger  vines,  those  over 
%  inch  in  diameter,  the  best  graft  is  the  ordinary  cleft,  shown  in 
Fig.  26,  C,  CC. 

Tying  and  Waxing.  — No  wax  or  clay  should  be  used  on  the  graft. 
Anything  which  completely  excludes  the  air  prevents  the  knitting  of 
the  tissues.  A  little  clay,  cloth,  or  a  leaf  may  be  placed  over  the  split 
in  the  stock  when  the  cleft  graft  is  used,  simply  to  keep  out  the  soil. 
Otherwise  there  is  nothing  more  suitable  or  more  favorable  to  the 
formation  of  a  good  union  that  can  be  put  around  the  graft  than  loose, 
moist  soil.  If  the  soil  is  clayey,  stiff  or  lumpy  it  is  necessary  to  surround 
the  union  with  loose  soil  or  sand  brought  from  outside  the  vineyard. 

It  will  usually  be  necessary  to  tie  the  grafts.  A  well-made  cleft 
graft  often  holds  the  scion  with  sufficient  force  to  prevent  its  displace- 
ment and  no  tying  is  necessary.  Wherever  there  is  any  danger  of  the 
graft  moving,  however,  it  should  be  tied.  There  is  nothing  better  for 
this  purpose  than  ordinary  raffia.  The  raffia  should  not  be  bluestoned, 
as  it  will  last  long  enough  without  and  will  be  sure  to  rot  in  a  few 
weeks  and  the  trouble  of  cutting  it  will  be  avoided.  Cotton  string  or 
anything  which  will  keep  the  graft  in  place  for  a  few  weeks  may  also 
be  used. 

As  soon  as  the  graft  is  made  and  tied,  a  stake  should  be  driven  and 
the  union  covered  with  a  little  earth.  The  hilling  up  of  the  graft  may 
be  left  for  a  few  hours,  except  in  very  hot,  dry  weather.  Finally,  the 
whole  graft  should  be  covered  with  a  broad  hill  of  loose  soil  2  inches 
above  the  top  of  the  scion. 

Season  for  Field  Grafting.  —  Field  grafting  should  not  be  commenced 
as  a  rule,  except  in  the  hottest  and  driest  localities,  before  the  middle 
of  March.  Before  that  there  is  too  much  danger  that  heavy  rains  may 
keep  the  soil  soaked  for  several  weeks — a  condition  very  unfavorable 
to  the  formation  of  good  unions.  In  any  case  the  grafting  should  not 
be  done  while  the  soil  is  wet.  Grafting  may  continue  as  long  as  the 
cuttings  can  be  kept  dormant.  It  is  difficult  to  graft  successfully, 
however,  when  the  bark  of  the  stock  becomes  loose,  as  it  does  soon  after 
the  middle  of  April  in  most  localities. 

Treatment  the  First  Year.  — Field  grafts  require  practically  the  same 
treatment  as  bench  grafts  in  the  nursery,  except  that  there  is  little  or 
no  danger  of  their  drying  out,  if  they  are  properly  mounded  up.  There 
is  usually  sufficient  sap  in  the  stock  to  keep  them  moist. 

They  should  be  disturbed  as  little  as  possible  for  two  or  three  months 
after  grafting.    Some  time  in  July  it  is  necessary  to  remove  the  suckers 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  139 

and  scion  roots.  If  the  suckers  grow  rapidly  and  abundantly  it  may 
be  necessary  to  remove  some  of  them  before  this.  They  should  not  be 
allowed  to  grow  large  enough  to  shade  the  graft  or  to  render  their 
removal  difficult  without  injury  to  the  scion.     It  is  best  not  to  touch 


FIG.  27.  Old  grafted  vine  on  which  the  scion 
roots  have  been  allowed  to  grow.  The  upper 
series  of  roots  are  all  vinifera,  only  the  lower 
series  tesistant.  This  vine  was  killed  by  phyl- 
loxera. 

the  scion  roots  until  the  middle  or  end  of  July,  when  they  should  be 
removed  with  the  same  care  exercised  in  the  nursery. 

As  the  graft  grows  it  should  be  tied  up  to  the  stake,  otherwise  it  is 
liable  to  be  broken  off  or  loosened  at  the  union  by  the  wind  or  the 
cultivators. 


Regrafthig.—Ferhaps  the  most  troublesome  and  unsatisfactory 
feature  of  field  grafting  is  the  necesshy  of  regrafting  a  large  number 
of  stocks.  Though  exceptionally  as  high  as  95  per  cent  of  the  grafts 
have  been  known  to  grow,  the  usual  number  will  be  between  50  and 
75  per  cent,  and  even  of  these  some  will  be  weak,  owing  to  incom- 


340 


UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 


plete  unions.  It  is  usual  to  attempt  to  regraft  all  the  stocks  which 
fail  to  grow  the  first  time.  This  is  done  the  following  spring  at  the 
same  time  that  the  grafting  of  the  vines  which  were  too  small  the  first 
year  is  undertaken. 

The  regrafting  must  be  done  one  joint  further  down  than  the  first 
grafting,  as  the  wood  will  be  unhealthy,  if  not  dead,  where  grafted 
the  previous  year.  This  in  most  cases  will  bring  the  union  below 
the  surface,  with  all  the  attendant  troubles  of  scion  roots.  (See  Fig. 
27.)     Unless  the  suckers  have  been  allowed  to  grow  the  previous  year 


FIG.  28.    Herbaceous  graft. 

where  the  grafts  failed,  the  stocks  will  be  weak  and  will  not  make- 
good  unions.  Regrafting  very  seldom  gives  a  strong  healthy  vine,, 
and  some  even  of  the  advocates  of  field  grafting  believe  it  is  best  to 
dig  up  all  the  vines  which  fail  the  first  year  and  replace  them  with 
bench  grafts. 

Herbaceous  Grafting. — Vines  may  be  grafted  during  the  summer 
by  using  the  canes  or  buds  of  the  current  year's  growth.  Numerous, 
methods  have  been  described  for  doing  this,  but  none  of  them  have 
met  with  much  success  in  California.  A  few  growers,  however,  have 
successfully  budded  and  grafted  Rupestris  St.  George  stocks  during 
the  growing  season,  and  their  methods  may  be  of  use  as  an  adjunct, 
to  field  grafting  and  to  a  smaller  extent  to  bench  grafting. 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  —  GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  141 

Instead  of  redrafting  below  the  ground  the  second  year  a  stock 
which  has  failed,  a  couple  of  suckers  may  be  allowed  to  grow  during 
the  summer  of  the  year  the  grafting  is  done,  and  these  suckers  may 
be  green  grafted  above  ground  the  same  or  the  following  summer. 
When  done  successfully  the  unions  are  so  perfect  that  the  passage 
of  sap  from  stock  to  scion  is  sufficiently  free  not  to  force  the  strong 
growth  of  shoots  from  the  stock  which  occurs  when  we  regraft  on 
new  wood  in  the  usual  way  when  the  vine  is  dormant. 

Figs.  28  and  29  show  two  forms  of  herbaceous  grafting  which  have 
been    successfully    practised    in    California.      Fig.  29    is    simply    the 


FIG.  29.    Herbaceous  bud. 

ordinary  T  bud  used  by  nurserymen  on  fruit  trees.  Fig.  28  is  a 
tongue  graft  similar  to  that  already  described,  but  made  with  great 
care  to  obtain  a  perfect  fit. 

For  successful  green  grafting  the  wood  of  both  stock  and  scion 
must  be  in  just  the  right  condition  of  maturity.  If  the  grafting  is 
done  too  early  the  tissues  are  too  soft  and  brittle,  dry  out  too  easily, 
and  few  of  the  grafts  grow.  If  done  too  late  the  buds  can  not  be 
inserted  properly  and  the  grafts  have  not  time  to  make  a  complete 
union. 

The  following  extracts  from  a  letter  kindly  written  by  Mr.  Thomas 
Casalegna,  of  San  Martin,  Santa  Clara  County,  gives  some  very  valuable 
hints  regarding  the  herbaceous  budding  and  grafting  of  vines : 

"1.  All  buds  put  in  from  July  15  to  August  15  start  the  same  yearr 


142  UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

but  may  be  injured  by  fall  frosts.  Those  put  in  from  August  15  to 
September  15  remain  dormant  until  the  following  year,  unless  the  stock 
is  exceptionally  vigorous. 

'2.    Budding  is  most  successful  in  the  month  of  August. 
'3.  The  buds  should  be  taken  from  canes  which  have  reached  the 
stage  of  maturity  indicated  by  the  pith  turning  white  and  just  before 
the  bark  turns  yellow. 

;'4.  The  buds  are  inserted  on  canes  of  the  current  year's  growth, 
unless  the  vines  are  exceptionally  vigorous. 

'5.  Green  grafting  is  most  successful  in  June,  provided  the  scions 
are  hard  enough.  The  pith  must  be  white.  Younger  scions  with  green 
pith  have  completely  failed  with  me.  In  a  strong-growing  vineyard 
grafting  may  be  done  in  July. 

"6.  The  leaves  are  taken  off  the  scions  when  they  are  cut.  If  they 
are  to  be  used  immediately  they  are  placed  in  water;  if  to  be  carried 
some  distance  they  are  placed  in  a  wet  sack. 

"7.  I  tie  the  buds  and  grafts  with  German  knitting  yarn. 

"8.  I  find  that  green  grafting  is  more  successful  than  budding,  if 
care  is  taken  to  get  suitable  scions  in  June. ' ' 

The  season  for  herbaceous  grafting  will,  of  course,  vary  according  to 
the  locality.  Hot  weather  immediately  following  the  work  is  fatal  to 
most  of  the  grafts.  Mr.  Casalegna  states  that  if  two  or  three  cool  days 
follow  the  insertion  of  the  buds  or  scions  he  obtains  an  almost  perfect 
stand.  The  use  of  an  elastic  tying  material  such  as  yarn,  as  recom- 
mended, seems  essential.  If  raffia  is  used  the  shrinkage  of  ttie  tissues 
which  follows  grafting  allows  the  graft  to  become  loose  and  to  dry  out. 

COMPARISON  OF  VARIOUS  METHODS  OF  STARTING  A  RESISTANT  VINEYARD. 

Bench  grafting  cuttings  is  unhesitatingly  recommended  for  the 
following  reasons : 

1.  Both  stock  and  scion  are  young  and  of  the  same  size.  The  unions 
are,  therefore,  strong  and  permanent. 

2.  The  grafting  is  done  under  conditions  favorable  to  rapid  and 
effective  work. 

3.  The  grafting  can  be  done  in  any  weather,  and  may  extend  over 
three  or  four  months.  Bench  grafting  may  be  done  on  rainy  days  when 
other  work  is  not  pressing  or  can  not  be  done. 

4.  The  work  is  more  easily  supervised.  One  man  who  thoroughly 
understands  all  details  of  the  grafting  can  oversee  the  work  of  several 
unskilled  workmen,  which  makes  it  possible  to  employ  cheaper  labor 
for  much  of  the  work. 

5.  The  cultural  conditions  are  more  easily  controlled.  There  is  much 
less  danger  of  inferior  results  due  to  excessively  wet  or  dry  weather 


RESISTANT    VINEYARDS  — GRAFTING,    PLANTING,    CULTIVATION.  143 

during  the  growing'  season.  In  the  nursery  the  vines  can  be  cultivated, 
irrigated,  and  generally  attended  to  much  more  perfectly  than  in  the 
field. 

6.  A  rigid  selection  of  vines  for  planting  can  be  made,  .rendering 
it  possible  to  have  nothing  in  the  vineyard  but  strong  plants  and  perfect 
unions. 

7.  As  perfect  a  stand  can  be  obtained  in  the  vineyard  the  first  year 
in  any  soil  or  season  as  can  be  obtained  when  planting  the  ordinary  non- 
resistant  vines.     (See  figure  on  cover.) 

8.  The  union  of  every  vine  can  be  placed  exactly  where  we  want  it. 

9.  The  land  where  the  vineyard  is  to  be  planted  can  be  used  for  other 
crops  for  one  year  longer  than  when  field  grafting  is  adopted. 

10.  All  the  cultural  operations  during  the  first  year  are  much  less 
expensive,  as  they  are  spread  over  a  much  smaller  area  of  land.  Two 
acres  of  nursery  will  produce  enough  bench  grafts  to  plant  one  hundred 
acres  of  vineyard. 

In  short,  starting  a  resistant  vineyard  by  means  of  bench  grafts  is 
much  better  than  by  any  other  method  used  at  present,  because  it  is  the 
least  costly  and  gives  the  best  results.  This  is  true  whether  we  produce 
our  own  bench  grafts  or  whether  we  buy  them  at  the  present  market 
rate.  Growers  are  earnestly  cautioned,  however,  against  planting  any 
bench  grafts  but  the  first  choice.  Second  and  third  choice  are  little 
better  than  field  grafts,  and  many  have  been  offered  for  sale  lately 
which  are  sure  to  give  disappointment  in  the  vineyard.  There  are 
several  nurserymen  in  the  State  now  who  are  producing  No.  1  bench 
grafts  Avhich  are  equal,  and  for  planting  here  perhaps  superior,  to  any 
produced  in  Europe. 

With  regard  to  nursery  grafting  and  bench  grafting  roots,  all  that 
can  be  said  in  their  favor  is  that  they  are  fairly  good  methods  when 
bench  grafting  cuttings  is  impracticable.  They  enable  us  to  produce 
rooted  grafts  with  stocks  which,  owing  to  the  difficulty  with  which  they 
root,  are  very  difficult  to  bench  graft  as  cuttings.  By  their  means  we 
are  enabled  to  utilize  resistant  cuttings  which  are  too  small  to  bench 
graft,  and  a  larger  percentage  of  well-grown  grafted  vines  is  obtained 
from  the  nursery. 

On  the  other  hand,  as  the  stock  is  at  least  two  years  old  when  grafted 
there  is  reason  to  fear  that  with  some  stocks  many  unions  will  fail  as 
the  vines  become  older.  The  vines  are  larger  when  they  are  taken 
from  the  nursery,  which  increases  the  cost  of  removal,  and  there  is 
little  if  any  gain  in  growth  over  bench  grafts  when  planted  in  the 
vineyard.  Finally,  the  method  requires  a  year  longer  and  is  in  every 
way  more  expensive. 

Of  field  grafting,  nothing  favorable  can  be  said  except  that  it  is  more 
generally  understood  and  the  expense  and  work  are  spread  over  several 


144  UNIVERSITY   OF    CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT   STATION. 

years  instead  of  being  principally  in  the  first.  Many  of  its  disad- 
vantages may  be  inferred  from  what  has  already  been  said  of  the 
advantages  of  bench  grafting.  The  principal  are  the  extreme  difficulty 
of  obtaining  a  perfect  stand,  the  trouble  with  scion  roots  and  stock 
suckers,  the  impossibility  of  detecting  imperfect  unions  until  the  vines 
die,  and  finally  the  greater  ultimate  cost. 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. 

In  the  preparation  of  this  bulletin  I  have  been  greatly  assisted  by 
many  grape-growers  and  nurserymen  who  have  kindly  allowed  me  to 
examine  their  methods,  notably  by  Messrs.  Frank  Swett  of  Martinez, 
W.  G.  Doidge  of  Lodi,  George  E.  Roeding  of  Fresno,  and  Thomas 
Casalegna  of  Evergreen. 


STATION  PUBLICATIONS  AVAILABLE  FOR  DISTRIBUTION. 


1896. 

1897. 

1898. 

1900. 
1902. 
1903. 
1904. 


Reprint. 
No.  128. 

131. 

133. 

138. 

139. 

140. 

141. 

142. 

143. 

144. 

145. 

146. 

147. 

148. 

149. 

150. 

151. 

152. 

153. 

154. 

155. 

156. 

158. 

159. 

160. 

161. 

162. 

163. 

164. 

165. 

166. 

167. 

168. 

169. 

170. 

171. 

172. 

173. 

174. 

175. 

176. 

177. 

178. 

179. 


REPORTS. 

Report   of    the    Viticultural    Work    during    the    seasons    1887-93,    with    data 

regarding  the  Vintages  of  1894-95. 
Resistant    Vines,    their    Selection,   Adaptation,    and    Grafting.      Appendix    to 

Viticultural  Report  for  1896.  1J 

Pai8951-96eandt  189697*  °f  Agncultural   ExPeriment  Station    for   the  years 
Report  of  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  for  the  year  1897-98 
Report  of  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  for  1898-1901 
Report  of  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  for  1901-1903. 
Twenty-second  Report  of  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  for  1903-1904. 

BULLETINS. 

Endurance  of  Drought  in  Soils  of  the  Arid  Region. 

Nature,  Value  and  Utilization  of  Alkali  Lands,  and  Tolerance  of  Alkali. 

(Revised  and   Reprint,  1905.) 
The  Phylloxera  of  the  Vine. 
Tolerance  of  Alkali  by  Various  Cultures. 
Citrus  Fruit  Culture. 
Orange  and   Lemon   Rot. 

Lands  of  the  Colorado  Delta  in  Salton  Basin,  and  Supplement. 
Deciduous  Fruits  at  Paso  Robles. 
Grasshoppers  in  California. 
California  Peach-Tree  Borer. 
The  Peach- Worm. 
The  Red  Spider  of  Citrus  Trees. 
New  Methods  of  Crafting  and  Budding  Vines. 
Culture  Work  of  the  Substations. 
Resistant  Vines  and  their  Hybrids. 
California  Sugar  Industry. 
The  Value  of  Oak  Leaves  for  Forage. 
Arsenical  Insecticides. 
Fumigation  Dosage. 
Spraying  with  Distillates. 
Sulfur  Sprays  for  Red  Spider. 
Directions  for  Spraying  for  the  Codling-Moth. 
Fowl  Cholera. 

California   Olive  Oil ;    its   Manufacture. 
Contribution   to  the  Study  of  Fermentation. 
The  Hop  Aphis. 

Tuberculosis   in    Fowls.      (Reprint.) 
Commercial   Fertilizers.      (Dec.   1,   1904.) 
Pear  Scab. 

Poultry  Feeding  and  Proprietary  Foods.      ( Reprint. ) 
Asparagus  and  Asparagus  Rust  in  California. 
Spraying  for  Scale  Insects. 
Manufacture  of  Dry  Wines  in  Hot  Countries. 
Observations  on  Some  Vine  Diseases  in  Sonoma  County. 
Tolerance  of  the   Sugar  Beet  for  Alkali. 
Studies  in  Grasshopper  Control. 
Commercial  Fertilizers.      (June  30,   1905.) 
Further  Experience  in  Asparagus  Rust  Control. 
Commercial  Fertilizers.      (December,   1905.) 
A  New  Wine-Cooling  Machine. 
Tomato   Diseases   in   California. 
Sugar  Beets  in  the  San  Joaquin   Valley. 
A  New  Method  of  Making  Dry  Red  Wine. 
Mosquito  Control. 
Commercial  Fertilizers.      (June,  1906.) 


CIRCULARS. 


No.  1.     Texas  Fever. 


Blackleg. 

3.  Hog  Cholera. 

4.  Anthrax. 

5.  Contagious  Abortion  in  Cows. 
7.     Remedies  for   Insects. 

9.     Asparagus   Rust. 

10.  Reading  Course  in  Economic 

Entomology.      (Revision.) 

11.  Fumigation    Practice. 

12.  Silk   Culture. 

13.  The   Culture  of  the   Sugar   Beet. 
15.     Recent  Problems   in   Agriculture. 

What  a  University  Farm  is  For. 


No.  16.     Notes   on    Seed- Wheat. 


17. 

18. 
19. 
20.' 
21. 

22. 

23. 


Why  Agriculture  Should  be 
Taught  in  the  Public  Schools. 

Caterpillars  on  Oaks. 

Disinfection    of    Stables. 

Reading    Course    in    Irrigation. 

The  Advancement  of  Agri- 
cultural  Education. 

Defecation  of  Must  for  White 
Wine. 

Pure  Yeast  in  Wineries. 


